some of you guys are trying to get this poor dude killed. Every beach has its day...know your limits but always test'em
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Oct 10, 2013, 05:08 AM #61Junior Member
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- Oct 2013
Oct 10, 2013, 05:42 AM #62Junior Member
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- Oct 2013
LOL, i know i have limits. After losing my board and having to swim back in in bad conditions I realized I need to be ocean strong. Cant freestyle worth my life. A couple months ago coulndt swim a lap without being dead, even though I can run up mountain, etc. Had no technique. Been practicing in the pool , pretending worse case scenario, dont touch bottom and nothing to hold on to. Went from only a lap to swimming 50 laps (25ml pool) with a mix up freestyle, backstroke, sidestroke. Now i feel more confident and just need to work on my surfing technique and build that up
I think your best bet is going to be the new wave pool at the medowlands....
Oct 10, 2013, 01:24 PM #64
I know some days on the outer banks, specifically rodanthe, if you catch a wave, you are getting barreled (and/or beaten)
Oct 16, 2013, 08:33 AM #65
Lots of guys here over the months talking about barrells and how taking off behind the peak is an advantage for timing and placement. Watching the Rip Curl Pro right now (after 5 lay days...finally) and CJ Hobgood just took off behind the peak at Supertubos and it seemed to break faster than expected while also not spitting much at first so CJ had a long fading carve out front off the bottom and turning hard back in and then getting covered up when the shoulder broke and finally spit farther. Pretty damn good ride and great read on how it was breaking in the moment. He worked hard to find an opening to get shacked and did so, albeit different than originally planned.
Step one: Move out of Arizona. I'm not being cocky, but your never going to become Bud Llamas living in Arizona. I'm pretty sure that whole North Shore movie was fiction.
Bubs are all about wave knowledge and timing. Which brings us back to step numero one. Leraning a proper stall is a bit tricky to those who are stable, but other than that.......wave knowledge and timing. Plus, you don't need a good stall where I live. You gotta race...race to fight the dying of the light.... at the end of the tunnel. As Keith Richards said, " You gotta know yourself and you gotta know your waves."
Some people have the urge to lean on their inside rail more when they are pulling into bub. Fight that urge. JUST TRIM like normal. You don't need to lean into it or you're going to have a bad time. Set the proper line and trim. Do not lean in. What's the proper line? Well see, that's wave knowledge. In the thicker ones your board will seem like it's pointing at the beach, but that's still the trim baby.
Someone will have to explain the difference between tubes and barrels to me. OMG what aboot bowls? Todd Miller got covered up on that inside section. Now cover-ups ain't tubes, but in this world of subjective reality to some who have deeper frequency vibrations they might be. That one second covered in whitewater may last ages, and send them into a different plain or plane of existence.
Everybody's talking aboot the new tube funny but they're all still bubs to me.
You know some people read The Catcher in the Rye and they go, " Yeah dog."
Some sit patiently for a car chase or an explosion or a gunfight....and leave disappointed
And some don't read it at all......
Ya know what it is that I be sayin' ?
Oct 16, 2013, 04:41 PM #67Senior Member
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- Sep 2013
Playa Grande can get pretty good for a little beach break. It only breaks hightide though. If you go during low tide it can look absolutely flat. Its amazing.... once hightide comes in it just all of a sudden jacks up as if it were a different day. So if you go and it looks flat, just wait a bit. Also down by the La Roca is "Snakes Reef". If the swell is right it gets pretty good there too.
Witches Rock can be good but is quite a trek. Even when you are able to drive in its still a pretty good hike then paddle. Its an adventure for sure. The nice thing about staying in Playa Grande is that its central and there are a lot of good breaks in both directions within an hour drive. Tamarindo or Langosta rather can be good. Avellanas, Nosara, Playa Negra, Freddy's etc... All good breaks. Some more crowded than others.
Unfortunately there are now a few surf camps in Playa Grande and it can get quite crowded there. The break itself is a beach break but only holds in that one particular little area. Try to be the first one out as the tide turns.