Thanks for the tips in all seriousness, like I said, I've been able to get lucky a few times but making it more of a habit when conditions are ripe is what i'm after. I've become close friends with the sandbar at the Inlet several times trying.
So having that kind of control and being able to read the wave that well is something that will come with time i'm sure. Been watching lots of vids, but I need to check some new ones out, been watching same ones over and over again.
Results 41 to 50 of 67
Oct 8, 2013, 04:30 PM #41
Oct 8, 2013, 05:52 PM #42
Man, this is yet another sick thread. SI is on a roll lately. Only prob with this thread is that barrell is misspelled in the title.
Oct 8, 2013, 10:55 PM #43Junior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
Oct 9, 2013, 05:15 AM #44
Oct 9, 2013, 05:44 AM #45
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Punching Latex Dummys in Barns
Oct 9, 2013, 09:43 AM #46
Oct 9, 2013, 11:45 AM #47
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Ocean County NJ
Identifying waves surfing potential is a tremendous skill by itself. This would be YOUR first step. It seems your overthinking it and want someone to hand feed you a perfect tube. YOU need to identify your prey and hunt it down. I'm always on the hunt. Repetition is key to getting tubular. There are so many variances in speed, thickness, and size so there isn't a single recipe for getting tubed. You need to be extremely present in the moment and react accordingly. For any control you must be able to slow down and speed up on a dime. Navigate through that hole until your out or it collapses completely. Don't bail early or try to escape or you'll receive massive beatings! Take off late and/or deep. You need to paddle your hardest to stay under the lip! Don't be a p*ssy! You will take beatings hunting for tubes. Lots. On MOST east coast barrel days I'd be lucky to make 50%. So what, it's still super fun. Some tubes that you almost make and/or travel far in are still the sh*t and offer plenty of stoke. Never be discouraged, if you get shacked after a ton of beatings you'll appreciate it that much more. It only takes that one wave sometimes to make your week.
The obvious beginnings: Sand bottom, not big, not crowded.
Ride as many waves as you can, always! You have a lot of hard work to do but if you stay on it, ye shall be rewarded.
Last edited by Doug; Oct 9, 2013 at 11:49 AM.
Oct 9, 2013, 11:52 AM #48
Oct 9, 2013, 01:40 PM #49
Oct 9, 2013, 03:24 PM #50Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
Been naked a few times at Ponce too, but I did it at night!
Got lit with a few friends after a contest and went streaking through "Chases" (in NSB) for a night surf... not as brave as you though, mine were all at night! (and unsober)
To tell you the truth I never go out surfing looking for a barrel. I just paddle out and hope for a few really good waves. There are plenty of barrels (or how ever you spell it) at Ponce to be had.... Also NSB side at high tide! I have a big poster on my wall of a picture I had blown up of me in a nice size barrel at Ponce. Even on the small days you can still find a little cover up here and there.
Like I said though I never paddle into a wave knowing its going to barrel. It just all happens so quick and I know it sounds cliche be its kind of instinct. How often do you see a guy that is about to get into a barrel look over his shoulder? Never! Its because you just kind of feel it and know its there and happening. Its also a different sound of a wave. Instead of just a crashing, thunderous normal sound its more like when you drive your car through a tunnel or underpass. It makes that "tunneling sound". Sorry, I can here it in my head but am finding it hard to describe the stupid sound effect coming out of my mouth.
The same goes for once you are in the barrel too, you just know what to do... whether it be speed up or slow down, or exit out the back.
I know what you're feeling though, I had the same feeling when I started surfing. When I was pre-grom I would sit in my room and stare at all the surfing posters on my wall, I literally had my walls covered like a scrapbook with surfing picts and girls in bikinis! When I stared at the waves on my walls I could actually feel what it would be like to surf them. (same with picts of the girls!)
I think another thing that really helps your surfing improve is just travelling around to different breaks. Whether it be just in the state or out of the country. Another thing I highly recommend is for you to stick with the same shape board. One of the biggest mistakes for beginners is to constantly change their ride. Your board is like another appendage and the more familiar you are with it the more you will improve. Ever jump in a different car and just take off, it usually takes sometime to get used to it. It takes way more concentration navigating turns and parking and tight spots etc... because you aren't as familiar with it.
On that note... on a recent trip to Nicaragua we scored some of the best barrels of our lives! Full on stand up barrels! I have picts and when I have time I'll put some in my profile.
Actually a few days it was too big! We paddled out and watched guys with helmets get towed into some massive pits! Here's a video.... wasn't from that day and is a lot smaller but you get the idea....
Last edited by wavehog1; Oct 9, 2013 at 03:26 PM.