That being, never paddle out into decent sized surf (easily head high on the sets with a monstrous side/offshore and pitching out for days) with the smallest skeg you own on your 9'2", and expect to catch anything but air.
For some reason I couldn't get the short skeg that's in my current hot-dogger (the side bites I had loaned to a friend) out so I could put in my longer one...I laughed to myself and thought oh what can it really matter...the waves didn't look that technical from shore. Plus I thought, a challenge should be "Fun".
I started off by the pier so I could drift back down to where my buddy lives....
Needless to say, on each wave I tried I either caught air on take off, or slid around on the face so much that it made the whole session (which i cut short) a real bummer...
Been surfing for 15 years and still it seems one can re-kookify!
hope everyone else caught (actually caught) some of these waves!
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Oct 9, 2013, 07:21 PM #1
learned a valuable lesson today in CB