That being, never paddle out into decent sized surf (easily head high on the sets with a monstrous side/offshore and pitching out for days) with the smallest skeg you own on your 9'2", and expect to catch anything but air.
For some reason I couldn't get the short skeg that's in my current hot-dogger (the side bites I had loaned to a friend) out so I could put in my longer one...I laughed to myself and thought oh what can it really matter...the waves didn't look that technical from shore. Plus I thought, a challenge should be "Fun".
I started off by the pier so I could drift back down to where my buddy lives....
Needless to say, on each wave I tried I either caught air on take off, or slid around on the face so much that it made the whole session (which i cut short) a real bummer...
Been surfing for 15 years and still it seems one can re-kookify!
hope everyone else caught (actually caught) some of these waves!
Results 1 to 10 of 27
Oct 9, 2013, 06:21 PM #1
learned a valuable lesson today in CB
Oct 9, 2013, 06:24 PM #2
What size fin were you using?
Oct 9, 2013, 06:33 PM #3
maybe a 6 to 7".. Fibreglass Fin Co. I dunno really , I inherited it so never measured it. I use it for shorebreak days...I can ride it way up close. It was dumb, and I looked dumber.
Oct 9, 2013, 06:33 PM #4
I ask because I ride a 9'2 with a 8'' Rainbow Rake and the sidebites. Sometimes I use a 9'' Wingnut Cutaway either single or with the sidebites.
Oct 9, 2013, 06:34 PM #5
Oct 9, 2013, 06:37 PM #6
Definitely too small but you already learned that by how it didn't perform. I believe rule of thumb is 1" for every foot your board is, so at 9'2" you probably want to go with a 9" single or maybe an 8 like Bassplayer has
Oct 9, 2013, 06:39 PM #7
The whole trip was improperly planned..wasn't really gonna paddle out. kinda just drove down to my buddys crib so I could let my dog play in the sand for a bit while i checked the waves. just happened to have that board in the car with me and thought..oh well let's grab a few while I'm here. I'm going back out later, Im hoping the wind dies down...and I def will use a diff board or get that fin replaced!
Oct 9, 2013, 06:43 PM #8
Oct 9, 2013, 06:43 PM #9
that tiny fin sure does make mushy shorebreaky days fun though! And I can actually get a real easy 360 or 2 in with it bc its almost like riding on air already! I love showing ppl /fella surfers that you can have fun on the shattiest days imaginable...
Oct 9, 2013, 06:45 PM #10