So lately I've discovered my real love in surfing is the art of surfing big waves. I haven't surfed any major waves myself, in fact my greatest wave achieved is a whooping 6 foot haha. Anyways I'm 17 years old and started surfing when I was near ending 16. Does my age when I started affect the chances of me being able to achieve riding dream waves such as mavericks? I know it's a dumb question but seeing all these kids that started at young ages and knowing all the Big wave surfers I've grown to love have all started to when they were little guys. So am i just being a dramatic kook or does my age kind of hold me back? Also does anyone know a well known surfer who started late in life?
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Thread: Big Wave Surfing question
Oct 16, 2013, 02:50 AM #1Junior Member
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Big Wave Surfing question
Oct 16, 2013, 03:18 AM #2
Just go for it. Get a plane ticket to Hawaii, catch a cab to the North Shore, paddle out at 3rd reef pipe, wait for the biggest set and go for it. In all seriousness I think starting young will help you but build up to it. I started at 16 years old (22 years ago this past April) and have ridden up to about 2x overhead. Keep in mind riding bigger waves you need to be in better shape than you average east coast day. You will need more strength, stamina and mental conditioning. Also you will really need to be able to hold your breath and not panic during a long hold down.
Oct 16, 2013, 04:46 AM #3
Braddah is 17 yet worried he started too late. How funny.
Charge those big boys son!!
rcarter speaks truth on the differences in physical and mental conditioning, which start with survival and safety on the ones you don't make the drop, then progress to the conditioning you need to actually get the takeoff.
Plenty of brahs will chime in I'm sure and check the search engine out as there's so many good threads with big wave discussion. I read through one from over a year ago last night called Steep Drops I think. Had a lot of good responses and several that contradicted each other but there's a lot of ways to skin a cat.
Once again, you're still muy joven and so far from starting late even though yes, you see groms all around that are nasty. That's got nothing to do with how good you will or won't get. Can't wait to read some great responses here, good post!
Oct 16, 2013, 04:55 AM #4
Oct 16, 2013, 04:57 AM #5Senior Member
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- Sep 2012
- VA Beach
No, you're not too young at all, although for big waves I think you need to be more than just a "surfer"... You really need to be a waterman. When you talk about Mavericks, Waimea, or outer reefs in Hawaii, it'd not just about whether you can make the drop, but how you manage yourself when things don't go right... You can't count on a jetski to come get you or inflatable wetsuits to save your life. All that stuff helps, and limits your liabilities, but it shouldn't be a cruch to make up for deficiencies in your ability to manage yourself in the open water when nature can be at its fiercest. Just my thoughts...
Oct 16, 2013, 06:14 AM #6
just go for it. I was twice your age when I first rode a gun at Sunset and Waimea. younger is better, you are waaaaay more dumb!
I was scared out of my mind. Sometimes only 2 waves in 3 hour sessions. learn to hold your breath and go. its waaaaaaay more fun than you think. I 'limited out' last season at 15' Hawaiian. Broke board (9'6 gun) went in with tail between legs, felt like kook. 10' (Hawaiian)Sunset with small crowd is a GREAT time to learn.
I still suck at surfing.....but I WENT....and IT WAS GOOD
and learn to SWIM, like miles at a time, with no gear, in the ocean.
Im really looking forward to my recovery from surgery and trying to see if my limits have expanded (casue the limits push back, as they say), its scary and **** for sure, I'm scared, not gonna lie, but the payoff is insane, your first big boy is gonna be burned into your brain.
Im not talking sh@t here, I only say numbers based on what my mates told me they saw.
Im a guy who is/was a mediocre athlete and I have to work a real job, I am not a big wave surfer, I just like to test myself once in a while
Last edited by MakeItStop; Oct 16, 2013 at 06:46 AM.
Oct 16, 2013, 07:22 AM #7
Oct 16, 2013, 07:35 AM #8Junior Member
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Oct 16, 2013, 08:06 AM #9
Oct 16, 2013, 08:16 AM #10