I'm all good with a wave that killed Mark Foo and Sion Miloski. Strangely it does look make able in the videos.
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Thread: Big Wave Surfing question
Oct 17, 2013, 12:57 PM #22
Oct 17, 2013, 01:10 PM #23
Oct 17, 2013, 01:59 PM #24
Oct 17, 2013, 03:15 PM #25Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
I want no part of big surf like that. I get plenty of rush surfing waves head high to 2x overhead. Big wave surfing is more survival surfing. I have no one to impress in this world. I still don't understand how some of thsoe guys survive those falls and beatdowns.
As stated it takes more than just being able to "surf". You need to be an all around waterman I believe to surf truly big waves...a swimmer, diver, etc. You need to be able to survive when you don't just drop in a ride out to the shoulder without incident.
Sure some guys though are just plain psychos though like the Mavericks' crew...I read that some of those guys used to surf Maverick's on LSD etc.
Oct 17, 2013, 03:38 PM #26
Oct 17, 2013, 03:41 PM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
Its definitely a whole different sport! It also takes a very rare individual.
Biggest waves I've surfed was in the 20' -25' range and it seemed like it was a hundred feet high! I find that its not the wave or the ride itself that bothers me or that I fear. What gets me is the paddle out or getting stuck inside! Also the clean-up sets will put a slight panic in you. Once you see that one wave on the horizon, touching the clouds a little more than the others, you immediately start paddling out like there's a shark behind you! If you make it you look behind you at the carnage of others swirling and bobbling around trying regain composure in the eerie, quiet, aftermath of foam!
On my last trip to Nicaragua was probably the biggest waves I have personally seen. Seen being the key word! We were at "Outer Reef" and did paddle out but just to have front row seats. None of us had the right equipment for the job as the guys that were surfing had guns and helmets and were getting towed in. It literally looked just like Pipeline! People get seriously hurt there and there have deaths too! One big issue is that the nearest hospital is about an hour and a half maybe two from there!
Last year I left a couple boards and a board bag with a friend that lives there. On my last trip my board bag came up missing and when I asked my friend where it was he replied, "Sorry man, I owe you a board bag... one of the locals was found floating at "Outers" and we used your board bag for a body bag!" Which is fine with me cause I really didn't want it back after that!
I guess that's the best way to go though! Die surfing and then you are put in a boardbag!
Oct 17, 2013, 08:08 PM #28
I've never surfed Big Waves and I never will. Here's one of the best articles I've read on surfing them and the dedication it takes to do it though.
Oct 17, 2013, 08:23 PM #29
wavehog I saw the outer reef back in 2004, its pretty heavy, I didn't go. One guy I knew there had bounced off the bottom and gotten his anus torn open. I cant imagine 3rd world hospital and anus stitches go well together. I dont think anus stitches go well with anything actually
Last edited by MakeItStop; Oct 17, 2013 at 08:32 PM. Reason: anus stitches= bad
Oct 17, 2013, 08:36 PM #30