Yea... that's pretty much the way it goes for anybody who's functionally sane. My advice would be... if you're young, you gotta go for it now. Don't say that's how you want to live your whole life, because everybody I ever knew who actually did it, never talked about it. They just did it and went away...
So go for it NOW. Because you can't help aging... or needing money... and you can't help who you fall in love with. Those things just HAPPEN to you. And when they do, you'll look back... and here's the "theater of the absurd" part of it... you STILL WANT TO DO IT! That never goes away. Only now, you're too old and committed, and if you have any integrity at all, you don't just up and bail on people who you committed to and need you for selfish reasons like, "I just want an adventure."
Do it NOW. Pack your boards, (you do have boards, right?) and all the cash you got, and don't freak'n snapchat every second of it like anybody else cares. You're doing this for YOU, aren't you? Or are you? Take a few pics for yourself, if you feel you have to. And don't act like it's your life's work, because it aint. 'Cause like I said, people who do, don't talk about it.
You talking to me, ese, on that last paragraph or people in general? I will assume it was directed at me because I'm egocentric and everything's aboot me. Someone told me that on here once, and I've been told on SI that I'm mentally insane(like clinically) five times. Yeah, I have a few boards. Nahh, I never been in the ocean before, and I have this strange, kinky obsession for surf predictin' website message boards. I studied aboot the lifestyle for three years before coming on here. And there was more to this than just going surfing.
I didn't like that paragraph. But I will fight the urge to throw out insults and threats.
People who do, most certainly talk aboot it. It happens all the time. Rocky Dennis talked aboot it, and he would have gone if he didn't happen to die. Chavez, and bikers across the land, mourned that dude's death. All Rocky's mom cared aboot was getting loaded and laid. How would you know if someone "left?" They might be standing on the corner in Jersey City all these years......or in Northern State for sex crimes.
Ahh, but I am not functionally sane. I don't like being human for one thing. It doesn't seem to bother anybody else, but it bothers me. People, ah, how they are so willing to accept things. I hate bodily functions. I cry everytime I have to use the bathroom. It's so stupid. Really, think aboot how stupid it is. Yeah, yeah I know it's necessary and all, I don't need biology lessons, but I think it's disgusting.
Every morning, around the world, people wake and expell gas, urinate, defecate, burp, sneeze, cough, spit, menstrate, tug their junk, and all sorts of sh!t. Then they zip around in their motorized contraptions deluded into thinking what they are doing is important, and, hence, they are important. Really, sit in a parking lot of a strip mall, located by a busy roadway, sometime, and just watch the madness. Everyone speeding around like they have something important to do. 7 billion people running around in the pursuit of the superficial........farting and crapping along the way.
All people do is work, buy sh!t, and forge these personal relationships that, in theory, are supposed to make a person feel important and worthy. Then, humans being humans, problems arise in these earthly pursuits, and then the person yaps incessantly on their cell phones to anyone that will listen.
" Now I roll in comfort" "Yeah, that how it goes for anybody....who's sane" What is comfort? Comfort is a friggin preconceived notion embedded in your brain. It's all in your perception. Listen, you f'ing crackers, I'm not there yet, but I'm headed there. I had a hell of an obstacle to jump quitting Kasser's Vodka and cutting down my poppy plantation in my backyard. But along this "journey," I have been deprogamming my mind not to WANT things, for wants and desires are responsible for most of y'alls problems. Ax a Chinese guy, he'll tell you the same.
I am making progress too. I can sit in a house and read for days at a time and it doesn't phase me. I don't end up disappointed at the end of the day because I didn't expect anything during it. I roll with the flow. Sure, I get bummed when my spot's sandbar craps out like it did after last weeks Nor'easter, but that's beyond my control.