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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,623
    You are no spring chicken so between swells do burpees, pull ups and push ups to give you pop on the pop ups. Paddle like crazy from the get go, and say to yourself ( I still have to do this after surfing the longboard for days on end, then it gets big and I take the shorty out): "Fast to your feet, fast to your feet, fast to your feet". You have to do it three times really fast in your head to get to proper speed. Once you pop up on a late steep drop, make or break, the adrenaline will kick in and its all butter from there.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Crystal Coast,N.C.
    Posts
    404
    Images
    24
    Your inability to get up has nothing to do with C-force.....Nothing. Your just to damn slow getting to your feet. Commitment has to be quick. The bigger board got you into the wave sooner and gave you more time to get up before the more critical part of the wave. A shorter board will not give you that luxury so you have to be faster to your feet.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by KookieMonster View Post
    Right length.. right age.. is the Emass with a new name? Busted kook stay outta winthrop!
    Holy crap, gotta say that I thought the same thing when I skimmed the OP!!! Would love to say I'm on this guy's level, but I've yet to learn how to bullet my lists of racing thoughts so effectively. I may seek to hire this brah to put my stream of consciousness on paper!!!

    Vincent...we are TWINS!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    10
    Thanks, guys. Workouts between sessions and quick popups without knees sounds about right. Sisurfdogg, I also really like your advice about repeating the "quick to your feet" mantra three times - this kind of stuff has worked well for me in the past. And wave1rider65, you're probably right about the c-force - I had a feeling that this wasn't exactly what was actually going on, but it sure felt like it at the time. After missing the critical drop-in point, I was going so fast that I just could get myself up, but that may have had as much to do with balance as with anything else. Gotta get up faster.

    Spicoli: I guess we both like writing mini-novels, though mine seem to be filled with bullet points and yours with some intense surf lingo, brah. Truth is, I just got so stoked after that last session that posting my experience was the second best thing to going right back out there (which wasn't an option because of work and flat conditions). But yeah, I also find that analyzing my technique in most sports helps, as long as I don't overthink things (I try to focus on one part of the process at a time). Maybe we'll run into each other out in NH, RI, or ME sometime. In the meantime, happy shredding.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Holy crap, gotta say that I thought the same thing when I skimmed the OP!!! Would love to say I'm on this guy's level, but I've yet to learn how to bullet my lists of racing thoughts so effectively. I may seek to hire this brah to put my stream of consciousness on paper!!!

    Vincent...we are TWINS!
    Sh*t.... Who fed Emass after midnight?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    628
    When I started out I found the angled takeoff to be so key. Once I started doing that getting down the line became so much faster and easier. I'd say there are only a few days a year when you can actually bottom turn (depends on the break, of course).

    Also, welcome to SI. It's a good place to learn sh!t and have some laughs. You'll quickly learn that Jerzy is surf Mecca with routine 23' swellls. Just watch out for tow-ins when it's knee-high and cranking.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    10
    Thanks, Mad Atom; I will definitely put some more effort into angled takeoffs. Now I just need some waves to come in for a pre-work session tomorrow morning somewhere in New England. Not likely from the looks of it. Maybe I should hightail it to Dirty Jerz for some of that crazy tow-in action. If only Maya Gabeira had trained at Sandy Hook, she would have come out of Nazaré unscathed.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    628
    Yeah, nothing much tomorrow or Thursday, but Friday is still looking quite large and lingering through the weekend. My pessimism has clearly paid off.

    Why isn't anyone hyping this swell? C'mon fellers. Are we trying a bit of reverse psychology with Mom Nature?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    10
    The forecast does look really good - should be at least as fun as last Sunday in RI. Too bad I'm under a surfing ban this weekend while in Nantucket for my wife's bday. (Ok, so it's my bday too and the ban is self-imposed as thanks for her endless patience with my addiction, but still.) Hope you have a great time out there!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    304
    Dude, bring that board out to Nantucket and sneak out for a few! Saturday should be a blast on the island