costa rica at mal pais it was about 10-12 hands down the biggest waves ive been in. i hadnt surfed in a few month and had been super lazy. im super stoked when i hit the beach even though it was kinda closed out i saw some make able sections. i had a 7,0 i brought with be 5 fins ,it was also kinda thick so it took a few days to get a handle of duck diving it. but anyways there was some gnarly red tide as well but i didnt come half the world away to not surf. after about 45 minutes ducking and no luls in sight i make it outside one clean up set and it would be the whole battle all over again. i catch a good over head wave then pull out out quick. so me and this other dude that had the balls to paddle out (the other 4 dudes that came couldnt handle it all from new jersey btw). there were rips everywhere so i tell dude to get out and we paddle sideshore down to a good looking right hander, im goofy btw so this was a hard wave. huge bomb set come in probably about 13ft im like **** it charge it, not being used to waves the big i just rode it down the line and did a off the lip and rode to the inside the other dude caught the next set we were both super stoked. best (big wave) sesh for me.
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Thread: Ok post em, best sessions!
Oct 31, 2013, 07:51 PM #11
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Punching Latex Dummys in Barns