costa rica at mal pais it was about 10-12 hands down the biggest waves ive been in. i hadnt surfed in a few month and had been super lazy. im super stoked when i hit the beach even though it was kinda closed out i saw some make able sections. i had a 7,0 i brought with be 5 fins ,it was also kinda thick so it took a few days to get a handle of duck diving it. but anyways there was some gnarly red tide as well but i didnt come half the world away to not surf. after about 45 minutes ducking and no luls in sight i make it outside one clean up set and it would be the whole battle all over again. i catch a good over head wave then pull out out quick. so me and this other dude that had the balls to paddle out (the other 4 dudes that came couldnt handle it all from new jersey btw). there were rips everywhere so i tell dude to get out and we paddle sideshore down to a good looking right hander, im goofy btw so this was a hard wave. huge bomb set come in probably about 13ft im like **** it charge it, not being used to waves the big i just rode it down the line and did a off the lip and rode to the inside the other dude caught the next set we were both super stoked. best (big wave) sesh for me.
Then there was this session in monmouth county, so many good days at this jetty, not to crowded either, I mean literally dozens of sessions like this over the course of a few winters, just me and a few buds...good times
Random day at Harvey Cedars, me and two friends. 4-6 perfect square right barrels all day. One of those sessions you don't expect to be epic but the lack of people made it all time. Also Hurricane Irene( i think ) also two friends out and no one was surfing. Drifting from 14th to 8th street OCNJ 40mph off shores but waves were so good. damn. . . I want to surf
I remember the best week of surf. Rocktober 04. System was stalled in the Atlantic and pumped out head high plus from Tuesday to Sunday. It was offshore and pumping in NY all day long. By far the best week of surfing (at home) I've ever had.
Sunset at Lower Trestles a couple years ago. We walked a mile up the beach from San Onofre in the late afternoon on a small but clean day. People began leaving about an hour before sunset and by the time the sun set there were only a handful of us left on the peak at Lowers and the sets were classy little 3 foot a-frames with perfect running shoulders.
Dolphins were around, and pretty soon there were just three or four of us sharing the peak and the ocean got that oily orange - purple sheen it gets on a glassy day after sunset on the west coast. It was kind of cool that such a ridiculously zooed out spot could become tranquil, mellow, and drop dead beautiful for that last hour. Then a mile beach walk in the near dark back to where our car was parked at San-O.