Sorry, I don’t participate in organized religion nor am I attempting to start one. I’m all for promoting a positive way of being for humanity but religions are distorting the truth and aren’t meant to be literal interpretations or twisted to fit agendas. It’s difficult explaining how I/we fit into the bigger picture universally.
I found the ocean (my church). That’s the place where I really connect to the greater infallible energy of the universe. I’m referring to the circular cycles that inevitably and perpetually take place on timelines we can’t comprehend. This energy is all around us, and also is us. Do you feel it? You can’t control it at all, ever. It’s quite literally awesome. When on land, participating in the rat race this energy is difficult to gauge.
Waves are a direct result of this universal and perpetual energy. While surfing, we’re inserting ourselves directly into the heart of this energy despite the mass of variables. I feel when we navigate sick waves to completion we are truly doing something special by synchronizing with the greater energy that fuels the universe. Surfing is more than a sport or lifestyle.
Surfing isn’t the only way to tap this energy directly, but feels like the best way to me. I also found playing music (not the set list of your favorite Friday night cover band) can take me there but not as completely. I sort of pick the energy out of the air and just start jamming. I can play other artists songs but prefer to make sh*t up and flow with it. I had some pretty fulfilling solo and group random jam sessions over the years. I may not remember what I played the other day because it was such a space journey but it’s never stopped me from playing something cool today. I just go with the vibes and there’s a good chance they’ll be different from the previous jam anyway. Forcing out known songs doesn’t satisfy me much although I occasionally enjoy playing a couple. Flea is mental!
How’s my long winded excuse to post this sick vid that some of you probably saw already?
Anyway, grab a beer or a v8 and relax your mind. The essence of my “religion” can be experienced here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nz-XX2qpRw
I hope you enjoy the video as much as I did. The essence really kicks in during the second song.
Doug Funny - in the spirit of no homo treaties and hatchet-burying (don't bury the hatchet wounds...we NEED those above ground), I'm gonna give you props on this post. It's solid. Just like the props I gave you a couple weeks back for scoring those waves you appropriately reported. The non-hierarchic, sportsless society that is devoid of any competitive element, yes, the one you seek to dwell in for eternity, that's a tough one for me to grab hold of. But your statements above are most excellent and I could spend some time in that world. I do spend time in that world. A lot of time, recently.
I did what you suggested, and I grabbed the wheel of my V8 (Ford truck) last night and took it off road after changing all the fluids. You were right brah, my mind was quite relaxed afterwards.
Now, everyone listen to this chap Do the Dougie and get on a big ass choppy wave in the NE today.