so lets see, go to church on Sunday or catch a wave? i go to church EVERY week, but i am also shooting pics when it's good. you can do both. some have turned cars, boards, boats into gods or religion. you know whats really funny, when we all get the smackdown, we look up and we ask God to help us out. why not turn it into a full time focus, where it should be. God promises to give us the delights and desires of our hearts.
MAYBE THAT WILL CHANGE THIS FLAT SPELL.
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Surfing is also a way of life. I know i wake up every morning and hop online to see if there are waves or take the drive down to see for myself. It takes up a lot of time, making it a lifestyle and a great one at that.
I though it was pretty interesting too. I think anything you do that is somewhat secluded from society, and in nature, is a spiritual experience. But religion is a belief. Surfing is an action and way of life. I can see how the connection is made because we are surley a different breed and often nomadic. Lots of strange people and wanderers that don't really go with the norm. But as far as it emulating a religion, I think that's a bit far fetched.
I can say one thing, big seas in the dead of winter on a solo session is quite the experience, and definately leaves me feeling enlightened.