Any one else seeing kick arse forecast next week for your local surfing spots ? Hint hint maine .. The vacation land will be pumping next week. The beginning of a winters easterly swell season I pray to Allah
the forecast seems to be getting smaller now.... i hope i'm wrong.
Wow I've met one of those christian preacher/surfer in RI last summer. Only talks and talks in the water about people should see surfing has a sign of god and go to church. I mean, I get the point of you loving your religion but c'mon going in surf spots and trying to get people in your church. Sounds like desparation.
When I was young when I posted, I posted cause kelly slater did it. I posted cause it was hyped, I posted cause it got chicks. I posted because it was the party. I posted cause it got the cool car and uh, I got all those cool things and they all just became, just, just you know, stuff; but it's all about the feeling I get from rding that thread. That first thread is the reason why everyone keeps going back. It's like anything if you didn't like it the first time, you're not gonna go back and do it again. Like, I tried iceskating, I ate it, I didn't go back again ever. Like, that wasn't for me, iceskating was out. Posting, if you catch a good thread, you're hooked, right then and there. I have a lot of inner demons, if I didn't have posting to get those out of my system, I would self-destruct. Posting's the only reason that keeps me going in a normal state, that keeps my life at an even keel. Without it, it would just tip into oblivion. For been posting, I swear I'll be honest, I wasn't having fun, I was going out, putting a jersey on, doing what I was supposed to do and it was just repetition. And I literally lost my will to compete and I wouldn't be doing it right now if I didn't have the will. I mean, it's not as strong as it used to be, but I know it's growing. The whole reason I started was I lost so many heats to get to where I was. I lost to a girl my first contest ever and I quit for a year and I never touched a jersey and I had to pick up the jersey after that and get back in there. And that's the only reason I got to where I'm at or I was at 5 years ago when I won those titles and I haven't won a title in a long time; but I'm getting back in the jersey and I'm not winning heats yet, but I gotta start somewhere. First thread I ever caught, I remember it to this day, clear as day, I went left, right, left and the thread never broke and I thought right then, "This is the coolest thing in the world." And from that day on I told my Dad every night, "I wanna go posting, I wanna go posting, I wanna go posting." It all started with going left, right, left on one thread at the pier and I literally will never forget that thread. Till the day I die, that was like one of the purest moments of my whole life and it always will be. I post because I'm always a better person when I come in.