"Rip Doom" is that his real name or did you make it up for dramatic effect?? Cause man i'd feel really f'd if the lawyer my opposing side stepped to the plate with!! Like "Max Power" you cant beat that!
Show up early on morning to surf the left in the photo (not the same day but illustrates the set up well). It was always difficult to tell how big it was from the parking lot because the harbor extends beyond the red roof on the right where the parking lot is located... making the paddle 1/4 of a mile through the boat channel. Further complicating my judgment of wave height was the fact that I had only lived on island a few months and had spent the previous 3 years land locked and surf starved.
Stoked. Solid. Offshore. Only 4 other local guys show up. One of those in attendance, George (an average joe like me), wanted no part and passed despite my assurance that it looked fun maybe head high. That should have clued me in right there as to this being a bad idea, but I was amping so hard. The others? Established pros that had years of success in international competition representing our island in some heavy settings like Hawaii, Pohnpei, Fiji, etc. That should have been the second hint but it passed me by as well.
Ahhh hindsight… Clue number 3… I only had a 5’ 8” and a 5’9” RNF with me but I would routinely surf these on the left till about 3 foot (island) before going to something else. Grab the 5’9’’, jump in and paddle out behind the others. About the time I made it to the channel markers (barely visible in the photo), I realized I had sorely misjudged the waves. The odd swell direction made the right heaving death that swung wide making the 200 foot plus wide channel about a quarter of its normal size (kinda like in the photo). The boys were on the left stroking into well OH/ DOH stand up barrels (takeoff was just out of frame along outer edge of the photo). I’m not one to let nervousness get the better of me so I decided I would sit in the boat channel, a bit inside, and paddle out only for the small ones the others let go to catch the bowling section between the finger of the jetty and the channel marker. I get 3 fun HH ones and started feeling pretty confident.
Then it happened. Missed the 4th wave I paddled for putting me way inside as a monster set approached that stacked up all the way across the channel joining the right and left into one huge wave. I watched in horror as the one loc way out the back and loc 25 yards outside of me got cleaned up by a racing wall of white water. Duck dive …eyes wide open… crystal clear water. I knew there was no way I was getting under the spinning vortex approaching me.
First wave flipped me upside down and pinned me to the coral under my board (in duck dive position) as it passed overhead. I let the board go to swim to the surface but the white water made it impossible. Had to push off the coral… hands and feet are now cut up. I break the surface and the 4th local who had caught the wave before the one I had missed sitting in the channel just yards away saying “Holy ****!” Confirmation: no one expected that. I started laughing, took a breath, and dove to the bottom for the second wave of the set. Again had to push off the bottom to come up. Only this time I wasn’t laughing. The water was dragging me by my board (leash pulled tight and unable to reach it) to one of two potential fates as there was no way I could reach the channel (so close but yet so far)… the next wave was going to smash my board and myself into the jagged limestone jetty or wrap me around the urchin encrusted channel marker. The water in this era is only waist deep so I went fetal as the 3rd wave hit me. I bounced of the coral a few times but managed to pass right between the two obstacles with only my board whacking the jetty as I passed.
Sat in the channel for a bit after that just watching, bleeding, and trying to catch my breath. The surfer that had watched all this transpire from the channel said, “Man! I thought I was watching you drown.” Didn’t want this lingering over my head, (I looked up to these guys and didn’t want to have the jitters next time surfing this spot) so I knew I had to catch another wave regardless. Took a while but nabbed one more and paddled in. Latter that day another guy got wrapped around the channel marker. Total blood bath. He was wrapped up like a mummy (slight exaggeration) walking with a crutch for a week afterwards.
Huge set, huge turn, barrel. . . . . come out claim. Sip beer, eat dinner, drop in, wave? stormy monday by all man brothers. Slender Man? huff spray paint?? Can someone tell me how dark matter exists? The ocean is nice. I like waves, heroin?,,, Fu**K NO!!!