Brett really has some amazing speed control and wave reading. Those were some technical ass barrels.
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Thread: Brett Barley Beach Break Bonanza
Nov 21, 2013, 12:13 AM #21
Nov 21, 2013, 12:15 AM #22
i hate surfing shorebreak,whch is all I get around here.its fun to bodysurf,but it scares the crap out of me being that shallow with a stick strapped to my leg.its not fun rolling across dry sand in an inch of water.mostly scared of getting taken out by my board since u cant duckdive when its 10 inches deep.theres been a few times where I wiped out in 10inch deep end and didn't hit the bottom,lol idk its pretty funny when I think about it,i just remember tryin to feel the bottom with my hands in all the turbulence and it stops and im on the beach lol.im such a darn kook
I'd either call it 3 foot or 2-4' depending on my mood. But yeah the bigger peaks were pushing four foot.
How was 34th st today? Man, my spot was as crazy as Amanda Bynes today. Just all over the place and confused. My spot needs counseling.
Man, you picked the wrong time to be unemployed, dude. My condolences, compadre.
Cipriano, shorebreaks like this one are just great. Glassy and easy, no paddle out as the sun dips down to sleep. Ahhh, nice easy conditions. Plus, bouncing off the bottom gets the adrenaline pumping.
Nov 21, 2013, 09:13 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
I'm not trying to be a **** but stay away from the shorebreak till you get a lil better. If there were a bunch of kooks shoulder hopping that day it would have been a different story. Nothing worse than riding a perfect barrel to have some should hopper send a chandelier your way. Admitting your a kook is the first step , when you realize that you will progress fast.
Nov 21, 2013, 10:25 PM #25
Nov 21, 2013, 10:49 PM #26
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Southern California
I didn't hit my spot secret spot on monday, had to go somewhere else with the south west winds... butttt at least I got to surf it all day because of the lack of a job...
People look at a ruler......12 inches.......nobody has ridden a wave that small, besides MFitz when the 12-year-olds aren't around droppin in on him.
A surfer's foot is not 12 inches. A one foot wave is really technically aboot 36 inches. I'll let y'all figure out the rest.
Also, a wave is a wave, and its size is it size. Waves come in all shapes and forms. Steep, sloped, and such. So just because some cracker drops in and the wave is level to his head doesn't exactly mean it's head high. Remember - shapes, slopes and forms.
A head high wave is five foot(check above for what a surfer's foot is) This is the proper way that has been used since Sam George surfed WSA and NSSA contests with Tom Curren. Back in the real days everyone knew this stuff. And don't worry aboot Hawaiian scale. They have an inferiority complex so they always posture.
I got the SURFER Magazine yesterday and I was reading the letters section.........such a different demographic out surfing these days. Everybody is so proper, humorless, and serious.
And I'm not being a pen!s, but some of you guys are a bit too excited aboot a fun, novelty-ish, shorebreak. Yeah, it's fun looking, but it ain't some world class juice. Far from. Maybe some of youse guys would think that Deal, NJ is the greatest spot around. I don't know.
Nov 22, 2013, 09:37 PM #28
Nov 23, 2013, 06:16 PM #29Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
brett makes those little tubes look a lot easier than they are.he's small and really good and knows how.most of us would never be able to ride that