"Welcome to paradise, now go to hell" by Chas Smith. Painful, man..
So, I figured I would enjoy something to read, like before bed and such...Once in a great while I'd pick up a book about surfing and though it's rarely anything special at least it tends to be entertaining and kinda nice on a cold, cold day. I kinda liked "Sweetness and Blood", it was mind blowing how surfing culture spread around the globe, even to places that hardly ever even get proper wind slop. The 'coolness' of surfing is a fascinating subject to me. Actually, to be honest, when going someplace to surf I would often tell friends that it's really a fishing trip but I plan to "have fun in the water and surf, too". Using the power of the wave and interacting with it is just awesome but I try to keep it in check for what it is and not have culture (dress code, industry ****, etc) consume me. Surfing was made cool by some cool people.
So I got that book and it has to be the biggest **** I ever read, on sport/lifestyle subject. Has anyone attempted to read that? And it was reviewed generally positive! First of the guy is a narcissistic douche and it is right about impossible to get over it. Second, he makes all those Da Hui people even bigger caricatures than they built themselves to be. This whole NS fascination is getting old. And I like reading stuff than makes you feel smarter and more insightful, this guy couldn't get over his f!@#ing designer clothes. Do yourself a favor and skip that. If you gotta read it, libraries got it.
I'm reading it now and am actually enjoying it... He is definitely the biggest douche ever, but I do enjoy hearing stories about people getting pounded by Hawaiian meth head scumbags...
If you've ever read anything Chas Smith has written you know he's a douche...
I do love that he dedicated the book to Mick Fanning after completely trashing him.
When I was a navy junior officer stationed at NAS Barbers Point 20 years ago me and 4 other jo's used our fat housing allowance to rent a sweet 5000 sq ft mansion on sunset point. Right next door to Fast Eddie Rothman.
A few months after moving in, one of my roommates had a squadron officers' party at the house, which ended with a brawl: US Navy vs. Da Hui, eventually broken up by HPD. No one was hurt - some black eyes around Hangar 282 at Barbers, and Eddie told us the next day everything was good between us - he had fun drinking and fighting.
Last edited by funkyspec; Dec 19, 2013 at 08:12 PM.
Reason: more info
you want good surf reading, try reading "In search of captian zero" pretty cool book, i forget the author though. I also tried reading "the Wave" by susan casey, really enjoyed it because i'm an ocean scientist and it was both ocean science and surfing, but all surfin was laird hamilton centric. Got kinda hard to read... its now sitting on my bedside table for about a year or 2 now
I hate mass market surf culture and expected to identify with this book but have to agree it's mostly an irritating waste of time. Chas Smith comes off as a wanna be gonzo without the analytic chops or humor to pull it off. He continually invokes the "cinematic life" to try to give himself depth but it's a dumb and undeveloped concept used as a stand in for actual thoughts. (And going to a war zone for Vice magazine does not make him a war reporter, it makes him an idiot). A couple good chapters on Pipe contests make me think the guy could certainly pull off a good article or two, and like many other books published these days this project would have been better at that length. Just not enough there for a full book.
The surf reading I most enjoy lately is anything by Matt Warshaw. EOS online is such an awesome project, skip this book and donate there instead.
Halfway through it now, and it gives great insight into North Shore surf culture. Although when I read about surfing I tend to want to keep it a little more positive. It makes them sound like a bunch of teenagers out there trying to be cooler than the next. Naturally, limited waves + unlimited surfers = Da Hui........The tactics work though, if I'm going to travel for a wave it won't be the North Shore, it will be Indo.
Last edited by Mulletbarrels; Dec 27, 2013 at 03:12 PM.