I kind of feel sorry for the people who didn't start surfing when they were children. I remember when I didn't know or care about tides, or swell period, fins, hulls, board shapes, or glass schedules. I didn't know what a cutback, backside hack or 360 were. I couldn't tell you if a board was a longboard or a shortboard, a Chinese popout or a vintage Greg Noll. Heck, there weren't popouts back then, or tide watches, or epoxy boards, or FCS and Futures. I didn't know about petrochemicals in wax, radiation in the water, pollution, or Roy Stuart. It was just me and my sisters and my cousins, getting pushed into the white water by our dad's or uncles, crawling to our feet and just being so insanely stocked. I remember when I first got serious about surfing as a teen, how awesome it felt to just stand up on one wave in a 2 hour session. Now I'm dissapointed if I don't feel I'm surfing at the "caliber I'm capable of". The innocence of youth and surfing are two of the greatest things. When you didn't know what a kook is or why you are one. These days, man I'm kind of jaded. I hate to admit it, but I need good waves and a good session to recreate that "Magic". At least I still can right? I still paddle out. You want to see stock. Go watch some people at a surf school getting a lesson (I always see 'em at the pier) and you might just see that moment when that pasty white, mid-Westerner catches their first wave and their face lights up. Especially when it's a kid.
I pushed my daughter into her first waves last summer, she's got the bug she loved it. We've had her in the pool since she was 6 months old and she swims like a fish now at 3. Just got big enough for the smallest of wetsuits. My nephew has got the itch too. This summer is gonna be great.
“Every time I was waiting for a set I’d be thinking about what I would want to do on the next wave and then I’d **** it up every time. I feel like a clear head and surfing purely based off a gut feeling or reaction or impulse or whatever is happening in that millisecond, that’s when I surf my best.”