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  1. #161
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Turtle Island
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    When I was going through puberty, and still exposed to organized religion, I was so superstitious that I wouldn't jack it the day before a session thinking God might punish me with no waves.

  2. #162
    HAHAHAHA... So awesome. Very funny

    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    When I was going through puberty, and still exposed to organized religion, I was so superstitious that I wouldn't jack it the day before a session thinking God might punish me with no waves.

  3. #163
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    1,759
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    When I was going through puberty, and still exposed to organized religion, I was so superstitious that I wouldn't jack it the day before a session thinking God might punish me with no waves.
    No; you'll just go blind. I quit when I needed glasses. It sucks to surf in contacts.

  4. #164
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Hammonton, NJ
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    Spicoli, sometimes dumb, blind luck is much more advantageous than over-analyzing everything.

    Really.....seriously.......

    Once upon a time, when I could drive, I'd analyze the swell direction(like real technically), the wind direction, the tides, the state of each spot's sandbars at the last go out. I'd measure each cold front, and try and compare it to others from the past.

    Oh, that's one thing that will drive you nuts......trying to recreate the exact same magic of a past session. It will never happen.

    Anyways, sometimes it's better just to wake, and go with the flow.......your instincts.......maybe check a spot and adjust from there. But trying to pinpoint what place will be working the next day, is futile......maybe.....

    Spicoli, like any caring Ward Cleaver parent, I'm just trying to help you avoid the same mistakes I made.

    You ax Za Gaf, he'll tell you......

    The better surfer you become, the less fun you have. If you start taping your surfs, and analyzing your style.....run...........It's getting past the point-of-no-return.........

    When your session is dominated by whether or not anyone saw your last off-the-lip.......run.....you're almost past the point-of-no-return.

    Ahh man, there was something so magical when you didn't know where waves came from. You just crossed the dunes and whatever was there was there..........

    Ahhh those were the days....

    Yo Seldom Seen, what's going downtown, yo !!

  5. #165
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Top o' the afternoon Mr. Bear! How goes it?

  6. #166
    I agree that in naive youth there is much joy and stoke. Then again, you're giving me far too much credit and ignoring my widespread abnormality. When the wahines tell me "you're not like other guys" I nod and say "you're right, Sheila." Different stokes for different folks, breh. My bread is buttered by breaking new and different ground ongoing and the further I get into my progress work the more it pleases me. Tonight, when I hit the park and drop in from higher than ever before it will be the most fun I've ever had on a plank with trucks. I aim to charge vert as greats like rcarter, Doug and surfingwasteland have.

    Maybe it was the tap water, the power lines, or the paste (and battery acid!), but life's only got better as the years have gone by. My modus operandi out of the gate was to dismantle innocence, not cling to it like I was Ponyboy Curtis.

    Do you braddahmon and I'll do me. Just make sure Starchy & the ATF keeps strong count on the Maine-iac's inventory of urethane friends. The ones I'd like to melt down and put in surfskate wheel molds.
    Last edited by EmassSpicoli; Jan 7, 2014 at 10:21 PM.

  7. #167
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Hammonton, NJ
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    Innocence of Ponyboy?

    Man, he grew up on the north side of Tulsa, surrounded by Dallas Winston-types, without parents........

    He didn't have it easy like Bob did.

    I'm not being snarky here, but are you prescribed adderall? Paste? Coca paste?

    And wow, Hawaiian and Australian in the same sentence......

  8. #168
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Punching Latex Dummys in Barns
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    why to kook longboarders emass? why cant they ride shortboards. to be honest i think there are more kooky shortboarders that take **** to seriously. its not a competition, its for fun. if your not losing touch with reality and ina different world surfing, please leave that mindset on land.

  9. #169
    SB you're the best LBer I don't know. I respek the LB, it's just fun to tap about it.

    PB&J are you parachuting those leaves? Because the acid ain't good for your throat and into your stomach, plus it's not psychoactive that route brah.

  10. #170
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
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    3,216
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddington Jetty Bear View Post
    Spicoli, sometimes dumb, blind luck is much more advantageous than over-analyzing everything.

    Really.....seriously.......

    Once upon a time, when I could drive, I'd analyze the swell direction(like real technically), the wind direction, the tides, the state of each spot's sandbars at the last go out. I'd measure each cold front, and try and compare it to others from the past.

    Oh, that's one thing that will drive you nuts......trying to recreate the exact same magic of a past session. It will never happen.

    Anyways, sometimes it's better just to wake, and go with the flow.......your instincts.......maybe check a spot and adjust from there. But trying to pinpoint what place will be working the next day, is futile......maybe.....

    Spicoli, like any caring Ward Cleaver parent, I'm just trying to help you avoid the same mistakes I made.

    You ax Za Gaf, he'll tell you......

    The better surfer you become, the less fun you have. If you start taping your surfs, and analyzing your style.....run...........It's getting past the point-of-no-return.........

    When your session is dominated by whether or not anyone saw your last off-the-lip.......run.....you're almost past the point-of-no-return.

    Ahh man, there was something so magical when you didn't know where waves came from. You just crossed the dunes and whatever was there was there..........

    Ahhh those were the days....

    Yo Seldom Seen, what's going downtown, yo !!
    Hey yo!!! I totally agree... That's what I do, I don't try to forecast where that next magic sesh is going to be.... No way!!! I just drive down to ol Belmar,NJ where EVERY sesh is magic!!!

    #belmarWhereTheMagicBegins