I kind of feel sorry for the people who didn't start surfing when they were children. I remember when I didn't know or care about tides, or swell period, fins, hulls, board shapes, or glass schedules. I didn't know what a cutback, backside hack or 360 were. I couldn't tell you if a board was a longboard or a shortboard, a Chinese popout or a vintage Greg Noll. Heck, there weren't popouts back then, or tide watches, or epoxy boards, or FCS and Futures. I didn't know about petrochemicals in wax, radiation in the water, pollution, or Roy Stuart. It was just me and my sisters and my cousins, getting pushed into the white water by our dad's or uncles, crawling to our feet and just being so insanely stocked. I remember when I first got serious about surfing as a teen, how awesome it felt to just stand up on one wave in a 2 hour session. Now I'm dissapointed if I don't feel I'm surfing at the "caliber I'm capable of". The innocence of youth and surfing are two of the greatest things. When you didn't know what a kook is or why you are one. These days, man I'm kind of jaded. I hate to admit it, but I need good waves and a good session to recreate that "Magic". At least I still can right? I still paddle out. You want to see stock. Go watch some people at a surf school getting a lesson (I always see 'em at the pier) and you might just see that moment when that pasty white, mid-Westerner catches their first wave and their face lights up. Especially when it's a kid.
I pushed my daughter into her first waves last summer, she's got the bug she loved it. We've had her in the pool since she was 6 months old and she swims like a fish now at 3. Just got big enough for the smallest of wetsuits. My nephew has got the itch too. This summer is gonna be great.
“Every time I was waiting for a set I’d be thinking about what I would want to do on the next wave and then I’d **** it up every time. I feel like a clear head and surfing purely based off a gut feeling or reaction or impulse or whatever is happening in that millisecond, that’s when I surf my best.”
I like you're buzzwords. They're funny and reminiscent of LASER BEAMS and ONE MILLION DOLLARS in Austin Powers. I'm not giving myself practice tests out of the NOAA book or anything. More looking to get in as many waves as I can. That entails knowing the right days, times and places to charge as well as the type of wave to paddle into and where and how on that wave to paddle. Anything that reduces the amount of scratching I do through shifty chop for a good lat and trap workout and increases takeoffs and good rides. I'm looking to score. Not float, not wallow, not get spun (gotta have it sometimes though), and not duck dive through crap with no apparent end in sight. The less I feel like wave repellant the better.
Wouldn't it be nice if I could get rides at will on a wave like I will on the bowls at the skate park tonight. It's not like that though. For each wave we take off on, we've thought about that ride for 6 hours and 18 minutes, drove an average of 31mi for it, paddled 394 strokes in a thick wetty in cold water, and had 2 kook LBers drop in on us and shott our heads. It's probably why I'm so stoked that I'm cackling when each ride comes.
How's brewengineer's day going though? Is he smiling and laughing? What's the over/under on peeps he's told on to the authorities on and offline today? God Bless the vigilantes.
Spicoli, sometimes dumb, blind luck is much more advantageous than over-analyzing everything.
Once upon a time, when I could drive, I'd analyze the swell direction(like real technically), the wind direction, the tides, the state of each spot's sandbars at the last go out. I'd measure each cold front, and try and compare it to others from the past.
Oh, that's one thing that will drive you nuts......trying to recreate the exact same magic of a past session. It will never happen.
Anyways, sometimes it's better just to wake, and go with the flow.......your instincts.......maybe check a spot and adjust from there. But trying to pinpoint what place will be working the next day, is futile......maybe.....
Spicoli, like any caring Ward Cleaver parent, I'm just trying to help you avoid the same mistakes I made.
You ax Za Gaf, he'll tell you......
The better surfer you become, the less fun you have. If you start taping your surfs, and analyzing your style.....run...........It's getting past the point-of-no-return.........
When your session is dominated by whether or not anyone saw your last off-the-lip.......run.....you're almost past the point-of-no-return.
Ahh man, there was something so magical when you didn't know where waves came from. You just crossed the dunes and whatever was there was there..........
I agree that in naive youth there is much joy and stoke. Then again, you're giving me far too much credit and ignoring my widespread abnormality. When the wahines tell me "you're not like other guys" I nod and say "you're right, Sheila." Different stokes for different folks, breh. My bread is buttered by breaking new and different ground ongoing and the further I get into my progress work the more it pleases me. Tonight, when I hit the park and drop in from higher than ever before it will be the most fun I've ever had on a plank with trucks. I aim to charge vert as greats like rcarter, Doug and surfingwasteland have.
Maybe it was the tap water, the power lines, or the paste (and battery acid!), but life's only got better as the years have gone by. My modus operandi out of the gate was to dismantle innocence, not cling to it like I was Ponyboy Curtis.
Do you braddahmon and I'll do me. Just make sure Starchy & the ATF keeps strong count on the Maine-iac's inventory of urethane friends. The ones I'd like to melt down and put in surfskate wheel molds.
Last edited by EmassSpicoli; Jan 7, 2014 at 10:21 PM.
why to kook longboarders emass? why cant they ride shortboards. to be honest i think there are more kooky shortboarders that take **** to seriously. its not a competition, its for fun. if your not losing touch with reality and ina different world surfing, please leave that mindset on land.