Got out for 45 mins before sundown. What looked to be cleaning up fast at 230 got a lot gnarlier by 330 and was shifty at the beachbreak (HA!). Considering hitting points tomorrow AM which should be no doubt a fine sesh. Haven't seen waves a quarter mile long around here since mid-spring. Great workout on the paddle and fighting through 12-15 wave sets that may have just been one sustained set no lull. Duck diving was on point for most of them aside from the bombs that broke in proximity.
Another dude paddled out right when I did and proceeded to get thrown right into me not once but twice on feeble duck dive attempts. 5 mins of getting worked and he exited the ocean. Good. The 5/4 Drylock is so on point I wasn't a bit cold in 9 degree air, 41 degree water and winds that were 15-20mph or more. Was shocked I stayed that warm. Was probably a great suit plus non-stop physical work in a restrictive suit. Man, are those hard to breathe in. Here's a few pics from here today, can't wait for dawn patrol.