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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    mswsucks
    Posts
    228

    Knowing your local surf area

    I have been checking out a lot of local breaks and the more I look the more I find.
    I've been getting some solid advice on spots worth checking even when the surf is flat. I am really enjoying spending some time investing in new local places to go to surf and it's getting me away from only going to 3 or 4 spots only.
    I can't believe how many people are willing to share the stoke and are awesome enough to share the information . I'm happy to say that I'm sticking to that new years resolution, Surf More! There's always time for work...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    confederate states of america
    Posts
    1,435
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    4
    if someone where to find my private spot they might be impaled by a pine cone or a corn cob,so beware in what new break you arrive at make sure you bring a knife like kenny does in east bound you even know when you might need it.

  3. #3
    Nice post Antoine . This guy at the county pool where I lap swim is from up north and has surfed up and down the east coast. He said his favorite spot is Paradise Beach in Brevard. He says it csn get crowded but there's plenty of waves for everyone. I think he paddles out to the reef, unsure. Have you gone there. It's a drive.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    milton delaware
    Posts
    1,493
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    267
    Quote Originally Posted by antoine View Post
    I can't believe how many people are willing to share the stoke and are awesome enough to share the information .
    I really think most surfers are excited to finds spots that work, and if you are local and cool, they really can't resist sharing the stoke with you FIRST HAND (not online) once they get to know you. They'll trust you with hard-gained knowledge (at least SOME of it) and probably unrealistically expect you to be judicious about dissemination.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Ocean County NJ
    Posts
    1,029
    Images
    1
    If your not sniffing around on a regular basis, your slacking on your surfing because observation is a key ingredient. I took an extra long walk with my dog the other day, at low tide, and what did I find? A sick a$$ sandbar that didn't resemble any sandbar in the area. This storm may tweak it or even remove it but that will be my first stop on the loop when the conditions are right. The general area is rarely surfed this time of year and I'll likely be solo even if I let a couple buds in on my discovery. People rather struggle with the default spots when they're not working instead of rolling the dice on what I'm telling them. Their loss, but they don't even realize it. Ignorance is bliss, I guess. It's also hard to lure some people I surf with away from the photographers too. Personally, I rather load up on good rides than deal with a crowd on a lack luster wave. Some of the photo whores are blind and selling themselves short big time. However if the one of the default spots is working well, I'll deal with the crowd.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,513
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    If your not sniffing around on a regular basis, your slacking on your surfing because observation is a key ingredient. I took an extra long walk with my dog the other day, at low tide, and what did I find? A sick a$$ sandbar that didn't resemble any sandbar in the area. This storm may tweak it or even remove it but that will be my first stop on the loop when the conditions are right. The general area is rarely surfed this time of year and I'll likely be solo even if I let a couple buds in on my discovery. People rather struggle with the default spots when they're not working instead of rolling the dice on what I'm telling them. Their loss, but they don't even realize it. Ignorance is bliss, I guess. It's also hard to lure some people I surf with away from the photographers too. Personally, I rather load up on good rides than deal with a crowd on a lack luster wave. Some of the photo whores are blind and selling themselves short big time. However if the one of the default spots is working well, I'll deal with the crowd.
    Well put. Once I started going to where ever the waves were, and searched out new spots, that's when i started scoring more times than not, and living 2hrs from the E. Coast and 1hr from the Gulf, it is important to make every trip a success as gas is not cheap and I make the trip every single weekend to one coast or the other, usually E. but I have gotten it good on the Gulf lately too.

    You begin to know what swell direction is best for each spot, and how the wind affects it and the tides, etc., I don't keep a surf log, but a mental one and it almost comes natural now when I see the forecast. I usually have 3 spots that i'm willing to check in the event my "go-to" isn't working, and out of the three I choose one will be working 99% of the time. The key is you have to be willing to drive a little, even if you're a local, DRIVE to where the waves are, don't be lazy and wait for YOUR break to do something. I can't count how many times I have found one spot working to perfection while all other spots within a 3-4hr drive are all blown out or flat.

    Glad you're exploring Antoine, you'll never get bored surfing different spots on the regular.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    I usually have 3 spots that i'm willing to check in the event my "go-to" isn't working, and out of the three I choose one will be working 99% of the time. The key is you have to be willing to drive a little, even if you're a local, DRIVE to where the waves are, don't be lazy and wait for YOUR break to do something. I can't count how many times I have found one spot working to perfection while all other spots within a 3-4hr drive are all blown out or flat.
    I have this internal zen compass about where I am going to surf. Im not going to say the ocean is speaking to me telling me which break to hit up, but I'm not going to say I didn't take a lot of acid in the 90s either. Anyway, I live in Vermont. My closest wave other than Montreal is in NH. I had MLK day off. I checked the report, and SI said Kennebunk was going to be thigh high and green at the end of the day. I drove to the wall in NH and found onshore 18"ers at an incoming tide. Drove to Rye and found weak peaks just strong enough to propel a 9'er, which I did not have. I kept checking the cams in Maine and it was bumpy choppy lakey crap. I called and Ogunquit was lake flat. I kept driving north though, partly because I didn't want to admit defeat, and partly because I had this bizarro confidence that when wind shifted my spot was going to pull through. I got to my destination and decided to suit up for some crumbly thigh highs. By 2:30 is was peakier, and occasional sets came through that a hobbit could've gotten tubed on. By 4pm it had cleaned up and was breaking down the line.

    Keep up the good work scouting. I study ariel maps of coastline like a nerd. I am a climber and backcountry skier too, so I am constantly stopping the car and getting out to eyeball patches of trees, rock outcoppings, boulders, etc. For fun I read topographic maps of my local mountains to find lines. Not to sound like a northface ad, but seeking out new spots and being the first guy on it is the last frontier. Its some superhero ****.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,513
    Quote Originally Posted by AggroNE View Post
    I have this internal zen compass about where I am going to surf. Im not going to say the ocean is speaking to me telling me which break to hit up, but I'm not going to say I didn't take a lot of acid in the 90s either. Anyway, I live in Vermont. My closest wave other than Montreal is in NH. I had MLK day off. I checked the report, and SI said Kennebunk was going to be thigh high and green at the end of the day. I drove to the wall in NH and found onshore 18"ers at an incoming tide. Drove to Rye and found weak peaks just strong enough to propel a 9'er, which I did not have. I kept checking the cams in Maine and it was bumpy choppy lakey crap. I called and Ogunquit was lake flat. I kept driving north though, partly because I didn't want to admit defeat, and partly because I had this bizarro confidence that when wind shifted my spot was going to pull through. I got to my destination and decided to suit up for some crumbly thigh highs. By 2:30 is was peakier, and occasional sets came through that a hobbit could've gotten tubed on. By 4pm it had cleaned up and was breaking down the line.
    That sounds like a lot of driving, how many hours round trip was that?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    sea
    Posts
    1,938
    i usally just explore my little part of the beach,wwhich is probably 15 miles with 30 different beaches.people see pics of a spot further south and everyone thinks that's the best place to be.unless its a newly discovered reef or point im not interested.its all sand and when their spot is breaking so is mine.would be nice to have a spot tho that u can surf when its small.the ocean doesn't even blink until its atleast 4 ft,and its usually closed out.once it reaches 5-6ft then everything comes together and it breaks right.kind of hard to improve tho,im mostly catching closeouts every session,but a few good ones stick.i would love to see a wave with a nice face so u can carve,but around here its always dredging barrels with thick lips

  10. #10
    I have 4 spots relatively close to each other that all break differently so I check them all out and usually surf at least two of them in the same day. It's really convenient because one of the spots can get crowded and then the other spot seldomly has people surfing it. You never know what you may find