well since were on the big wave subject i thought we would share our worst wipeouts, cause the two kind of go hand in hand.
both of mine were about 3 years ago. One time i was out surfing with a buddy out at the north end in Va Beach, it was huge and perfect. about 8 foot on the sets but really dumping super hard. So anyways first wave i pull into a huge barrel and get smashed!! Im getting tossed around like a rag doll, one of those wipeouts where your just trying to stay calm. But anyway i come to the surface and the wave had pushed me in a good bit and this was the like the second wave of like a 7 wave set. So i paddle like hell, but the lip of the next wave comes crashing down right in the center of my back. I take a super hard impact, but somehow make it through the wave, I continue paddling and look down only to see that the top half of my board is gone. Not only that, but im pretty far out and there are still waves coming in. So i bail my board and just duck under the white water of the next wave. But the wave takes my half of a board, and somehow just drags it underwater, and its attached to me on my leash, so it starts dragging me under. So i have to struggle a little to get that off, all the while some seriously huge waves are still coming in. So after this whole ordeal i am super winded, and treading water. I yell for my friend, cause i am about to frieking drown. So he paddles over and lets me rest on his board for a about a min. Then seriously the biggest waves i have ever seen in vb rolled in. My friend is starts freaking, saying " be a bro man, you gotta let me take this set." Im sitting there holding on to the nose of his board recovering from nearly drowning. So i let go of his board and he starts paddling out. I attempt to body surf the first wave of the set and cant catch it. But the second one was coming in hot, and i was right in the money spot. So i swam like hell, and body surfer a massive wave, and when the thing closed out on me i got SLAMMED!!! Worst ragdoll ever, I got pushed in halfway to the beach just getting tossed underwater. When it stopped i had no idea which was was up. I managed to swim ashore where i nearly collapsed, and i guess somewhere during i swallowed a bunch of water, cause i just started puking it up. Then i had to sit there and watch my buddy surf huge perfect waves all by himself for an hour. It sucked.
And another time my fin somehow got me up underneath my lip and cut up in there so that i could stick my tounge up where your lips meet your gums and feel my nose bone, but it healed in like 3 days cause mouth wounds heal super super quick, so it was no biggy, and i got a rad scar to show the lady now too.