well since were on the big wave subject i thought we would share our worst wipeouts, cause the two kind of go hand in hand.
both of mine were about 3 years ago. One time i was out surfing with a buddy out at the north end in Va Beach, it was huge and perfect. about 8 foot on the sets but really dumping super hard. So anyways first wave i pull into a huge barrel and get smashed!! Im getting tossed around like a rag doll, one of those wipeouts where your just trying to stay calm. But anyway i come to the surface and the wave had pushed me in a good bit and this was the like the second wave of like a 7 wave set. So i paddle like hell, but the lip of the next wave comes crashing down right in the center of my back. I take a super hard impact, but somehow make it through the wave, I continue paddling and look down only to see that the top half of my board is gone. Not only that, but im pretty far out and there are still waves coming in. So i bail my board and just duck under the white water of the next wave. But the wave takes my half of a board, and somehow just drags it underwater, and its attached to me on my leash, so it starts dragging me under. So i have to struggle a little to get that off, all the while some seriously huge waves are still coming in. So after this whole ordeal i am super winded, and treading water. I yell for my friend, cause i am about to frieking drown. So he paddles over and lets me rest on his board for a about a min. Then seriously the biggest waves i have ever seen in vb rolled in. My friend is starts freaking, saying " be a bro man, you gotta let me take this set." Im sitting there holding on to the nose of his board recovering from nearly drowning. So i let go of his board and he starts paddling out. I attempt to body surf the first wave of the set and cant catch it. But the second one was coming in hot, and i was right in the money spot. So i swam like hell, and body surfer a massive wave, and when the thing closed out on me i got SLAMMED!!! Worst ragdoll ever, I got pushed in halfway to the beach just getting tossed underwater. When it stopped i had no idea which was was up. I managed to swim ashore where i nearly collapsed, and i guess somewhere during i swallowed a bunch of water, cause i just started puking it up. Then i had to sit there and watch my buddy surf huge perfect waves all by himself for an hour. It sucked.
And another time my fin somehow got me up underneath my lip and cut up in there so that i could stick my tounge up where your lips meet your gums and feel my nose bone, but it healed in like 3 days cause mouth wounds heal super super quick, so it was no biggy, and i got a rad scar to show the lady now too.
When ernesto came through, me and my friend were just messing around and he got off his board to wax and i was watching what he was doing, and i noticed everybody start paddling out around me.. and i look up.. and theres like a 12ft waves coming through and me and him are inside... I was like dude get on your board now... Needless to say we got caught in the break and his leash wrapped around my legs and his board his me in the head i was freaking out.. i paddled outside and just sat there once i found the surface and managed to get out. it was rediculous and scary. Had a headache for the rest of that day. TECHNICALLY not a wipeout.. but goes with the big waves and wipeouts.
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Last edited by Jersey_lifer; Jan 28, 2011 at 04:22 AM.
the last big swell we had i may, i got tossed on the sandbar harder then I've ever hit the bottom before. At low tide on that swell, it was sucking up off the sand bar really hard in Ocean City, MD where I surfed and just super shallow. The bottom of the wave more or less gave out and I got thrown around the barrel and tossed on my back luckily. If i landed on my head or feet first, i could have been in a lot of trouble.
surfing sattelite beach fl 5 years ago during dbl overhead hurricane surf I hit a chop dropping in & my 6'0" (too small for that day) flipped around and stood on it's tail directly under me - I took the nose in my gut and the lip in the middle of my back - knocked the wind out of me and rolled me so hard when everything stopped my board was stretched to the end of my leash beneath me
My worst was in Bethany a while ago when i was still learning to surf it was like maybe 4-5 ft and i dropped in and fell on my bottom turn then got sucked over cause it was dumpin bad and got smashed on the sand and my bord hit me on the leg and the fin cut my foot.
we found a spot near our hotel in costa rica...in a very secluded area slightly north of nosara. it broke at low tide, which is weird for that area, and it broke over a rocky sand ledge. it was kind of like a lava finger coming out of the head land. one evening, it was 8 to 10 on the set and sucking up over the ledge...just fast steep walls and really thick lips for that area. 3 of us were just picking sets off and getting big ass barrels. they were big enough to stand straight up in, but we had to be in survival mode trying to get out. i got some balls and stood up in one, drug my hand above my head along the curl, and i accepted that it was about to swallow me. my friend was paddling out 20 feet in front of me, and he saw the whole damn thing collapse on my head and watched me then get sucked over the falls. i got pinned on the ledge, and when i came up, there were like 4 waves behind it. i just kept getting washed in until i got to the urchins and paddled back out. that spot is a baaad paddle, can be 100 yards from the beach, but you usually jump in along the side of the ledge from the headland. wont ever forget it, and wont ever regret it. when the sun caught it just right, the water was blue, and it looked like that image of pipe where its like 45 degrees to the wave and pipe is in the foreground and backdoor is in the background as the wave is about to peak up.
i was surfing a pretty decent day (7ft. at 9seconds) and they were pretty big, i had managed getting up on the first 2 waves i got and was stoked. so the next set came along and i pearled HARD! i faceplanted into the wave and immediately threw my hands and arms up over my head for protection. well that failed miserably. my board went nose first into my jugular (actually my lymph nodes) but regardless i started drowning and luckily hit the bottom and jumped. i was sore there for weeks, scary as **** but all i know is im good for more. its not stopping me for ****
I was surfing a relatively small day last year, but I had just gotten back into it after a few years out. It was a head high with occassional 1'OH set rolling in type of day, with a lot of closeouts and a decent shorebreak. I dropped in too too too late and got pounded to the bottom with what felt like 5 million gallons of water beating me to death. I got very lucky though and managed to get pushed forward enough to be able to stand up and hobble away but I sat on the sand rubbing my neck and head saying "well, gee I forgot how much that can suck".