I had a knee high wave last winter that I was screwing around on, doing little floaters over these tiny sections. I was laughing to myself about how small it was and what a moron I was for being out there in the freezing cold surfing nothing better than thigh high waves. At the end of this wave I hopped a mini off the lip and the wave popped my board right up and into my face. I heard my nose crackle and quickly realized it was broken. The water was so cold it didn't bleed until 2 hours later as I was driving somewhere and then a rush of blood poured out onto my shirt. Damm thing took 2 months to heal .
WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
today I was out bodysurfing in the shorebreak, trying to get couple barrelz. I took off down the side of a closeout, and it flipped me over and I hit the bottom face first. bent my neck back and popped it. could have been really serious, but the pain went away pretty quick and i was fine. but still, you really gotta be careful with shallow water
Not this past winter, but the one before that it got pretty heavy at times on the east coast. I remember one wave where I was on a bomber at low tide, was in a tube and saw it closing out in front of me. So I popped a quick barelroll to try and bail but had forgotten how shallow it was. Got grinded into the bar on my side and popped a disc on my back. Hasn't been right since... re-occuring pain, and sitting is a ***** at times.
Had a few beatings in the dead of winter that I'll never forget, nothing like getting a good hold down in 38 degree water with a buttload of neoprene on!
Someone at Darlington last year surfed into the rocks and got completely messed up, the abulance came and everything... I didnt get to see it, all i got to see was him on the beach half dead with his friend keeping him concious.