If it's your time, it's your time. No amount of genuflecting in the back of the van will help you. No amount of posting insane threads designed to anger others will assist a mortal body. Neither will the kiddies help the one who has brainwashed with not-free surfboards; those kiddies will be running for the sanctity of the precinct house.
Having mentioned that Swellinfo surfing-related aspect, ahem, I will say this:
I absolutely live for DP. Best time of day. In CR, por ejemplo, DP is when the bus hasn't pulled up to disgorge the hundreds of kooks yet. DP is before the sun becomes skin-killing intense. DP is when the wind is often light, and there's glass all aboot ya (PJB!), and there's still a camaraderie with the few other people in the water, and those sunrise clouds are gorgeous .... & the waves....the clean, magnificent waves are yours to pick as you please.
its all about knowing your limits.i only go out when I know I can make it in on my own,board or no board,after getting pounded.there are no houses where I surf.i see a lot of people who have no business out there and paddle out into a thick crowd thinking they are safer.i would love to surf with a few extra people for safety wise,but around here u have spots like this.u can surf break (a) by yourself and risk it,or u can surf break (b) with 30 people out.theres really no in between stages out here.its either solo or completely crowded.
last time I surfed was a secret little bar in sandy hook.i love it out there in the winter,it is desolute land out there.if u wanted to drag race through the snow,u probably could,and could probably fly right into the bay.its a surreal feeling like u left civilization behind,when u go deep deep in sh,not just the first few lots.i surfed alone,and was probably the only soul on the island,and if I got in trouble they wouldn't find me for a few months til I washed through the inlet.
sometimes in the winter u get these nice real mellow swells that barrel,but not all over the place.little current,designated takeoffs,like u can paddle straight out without duckdiving once,paddle to the left and ur in the spot to get barreled.being in the water is the best practice u can get.if ur a novicer I wouldn't recommend paddling out solo in winter.even if ur infront of 100 people,no civilian is jumping in after u
I surfed ai for a few days this week and I was it...not one soul on the beach, nothing but me with no signs of humanity - just surf, dunes, trees...no buildings, trucks, roads...nuttin but me and little waist high waves that were actually fun...felt like heaven....if it was overhead, would prefer to see a few souls only when the water is cold...can get creepy when it's big and very cold and no one around for miles.