I am wondering if by placing the back fins closer together, even though you gain stability, will you lose down the line speed due to increased drag? Will it increase drag, or will it give it more forward drive?
All quads create more drive. They do this by increasing lift and leverage. If the fins are out on the rail, two fins are out of the water when you put the board on a rail... and this actually decreases drag compared to a thruster. Pulling the fins back and closer to the stringer keeps more fin in the water on turns, adding even more drive, but at the expense of responsiveness.
Updating this thread...finally got some time to route out the fins. My sheds totally packed right now with boards to repair etc., and it freezing as it's not insulated--my vent van doesn't help too much either with regulating the temp. Consequently, I'll do my glassing inside tonight ;-)
Anyway onto the pics, I'm a bit unconventional when routing fins post-lam or when doing a repair, etc. I always clamp down the jig. I've had too many issues when the jig moves as the glass is too slick and mess up my route or shred my finger. Consequently, I clamp (nt., the additional pics) that bad boy down--when doing a pre-lam cut on a blank the blank has enough friction that it's usually not a problem as well leveling out the jig is so much easier with tension...just an FYI. Further, I always level out my racks regardless of the fin install, etc. and make sure that the jig itself is relatively level as well. Nt., the pics below...for some perspective...
Next the routing...most know this, but always make sure you have the collar in for rear routes--forgotten this more than once...also, I have seen some homemade future jigs and they're not worth it...if you're going to go for it and do this...just buy the real deal. As you can see with the collar this bad boy is well used and I've hit it with the router a few times to the detriment of a few of my fingers. Next route...the placement jig is easy (clear plastic piece...nose side toward the nose and rear towards the tail make sure the marks line up! Then...just route away...I usually go with the deeper base route first and then the flange route. No reason just preference. After I put the jig, and clamp, on the other side and again route away...
As you can tell...I didn't sand the board...reason why is I didn't want to lose my placement marks and I didn't have much time today. I'll sand it tonight prior to glassing it.
Both came out perfectly...about a 1/16" of the flange sticking above the glass...should sand out really well once I glass over it. More to come...
It's nice to see how other people do things and what works for them in their shop. Doesn't matter to me whether it's one of Roy's boards, Mitchell's 4'10, this Hypto, or uhh, this thing:
That board was designed by Peugeot to inspire people to buy cars.
Would I try it? Yes.
Would I want to see how it was created? Yes.
Do I think it'll work better than what I already have? No, but so what?