i surf because it makes me look like less of a redneck, so all the women and dudes look at me on the beach. so i can mean mug tourist and threatin them with violence when they get in my way. i also havnt gotten any tribal tats yet but im working on it. so i can praise jesus and convert people. so when i bench 500 at the gym i can tell everyone every time i pop up on a wave it causes a tidal wave on shore.... no but honestly i love it and it detaches me from the world when its going off. wbu youse guyz.
I surf because it's nature's ADHD cure. Thanks for the Fox News link above, I learned that since Obama took office, the waves are choppier, there are more close outs, and the swell height has dropped an average of 3 feet. Also, because of the Affordable Care Act, unemployed nurse sharks have been forced to grow teeth and eat people.
For me, it changed over time... at first it was because I had really bad allergies as a kid, and it was the only time I felt normal in the summer. Then I noticed that all the cute girls loved surfers... big bonus for me. Then, once I started getting good, it became my obsession and life's pursuit... pushing myself to my physical limit, which I feel I never really found. This is when I hit my peak, and consumed and dominated everything I did... every thought, deed, and dollar. Then it became my escape from all the badness in my life... an "asprin" of sorts. Now it just gives me peace.