Best medicine in the world. Keeps me happy and healthy whenever I have any pain. Whether its anger, frustration, or sadness, I can usually get right after 2 hours in the water. Only a few times have I thought of Iraq in the water, and that's because I brought it in. Some mornings its tough to shake the images of nightmares. But most of the time, surfing keeps me straight.
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Thread: I Surf Because...
Feb 7, 2014, 04:00 AM #21
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- highlands, nj
Feb 7, 2014, 04:11 AM #22
I feel like this is 1) the tenth thread of its type in the last year, and 2) something I've voluntarily digressed on countless times here. But it's a great affirmation so I'll do it again.
I charge waves because it makes me feel more closely knit with the natural world than most anything else. I also charge waves because it's so damn hard and I'm still so piss poor that each day I go HAM with a smile I'm so much better after for it even though I've still got so, so far to go in the grand scheme. Not often can we see and feel our daily progress in our endeavors. I feel that's always on the table when I hit the water - I can clearly observe the outcomes of immersing myself in the process that day. Lastly, I charge waves in anticipation for the times I actually am able to "surf" waves. As in, execute well enough that I'm actually resembling a moderately acceptable level of proficiency in the act.
It's been some of, if not the best therapy I've ever had on a day to day basis in my entire life. I've met some awesome people that I genuinely get to be friends with rather quickly and it's taking me to many beautiful parts of the world I've yet to see. It also is invaluable to us for the sheer fact of keeping us in check with the fragility of life in that one rip or rogue wave can put us and those around us in jeopardy.
Surfing tosses to the side all the crap in society and this life that keeps us from feeling truly alive.
Feb 7, 2014, 02:39 PM #23
I read this thread grinning like an insane man. Great descriptions and yes, it has been said before, but as Emass says, it's good to reaffirm from time to time. I surf because I'm a better person when I get out of the water.
I know what you mean. Trying to describe the total ocean experience to my friends that don't surf is a painful experience.
Feb 7, 2014, 03:02 PM #24Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- in the tits
i surf because chicks dig it
Feb 7, 2014, 03:02 PM #25Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
What else is there to do honestly? When its flat we wish for waves, we skate on our cruisers replicating pumping through barrels, its a sense of importance and dedication. Going out when its 0 degrees is just a thing we jersey boys do to fill our fix. Summer sucks after all, we vacation across the globe in search of perfect waves.
Feb 10, 2014, 01:04 PM #26Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Atlantic City
why do YOU surf? top ten for me…..
1) if exercise was a pill everybody would be taking it.
2) i have a lot of time/money/effort sunk into it.
3) i buy into the notion of 'life aspirin.'
4) i have a fantasy that i actually AM kelly slater.
5) i don't like phonys and there seem to be less of them out surfing.
6) i respect the ocean; as such (so far) i can play in it without repercussions others would
7) although i'm hardly underweight it seems to have made me 'less fat.'
8) it encouraged me to travel as such my horizons have broadened.
9) it seems to be easier to make true friends w/surfer types than with general public.
10) it is fun that does not leave a footprint.
Feb 10, 2014, 01:16 PM #27
i have nothing better to do.
Feb 11, 2014, 02:40 AM #29Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- 3 hrs. from sand
I surf for both superficial and spiritual reasons. Superficially, I figured I looked cool when I was 19 and had a neon short board and I honestly loved the image. Yep, I even felt cool with it on my car. I admit it. And in some ways I still like that. Now I am 46, married, have had a severely handicapped daughter and lost her at age eight, have had two more healthy children, have a stressful career and have made poor investment choices and found myself in a lot of debt, had a complete nervous breakdown with a month in a mental institution and an attempt at my own life, and a lot of major highs and catastrophic lows. My funk surrounding that stint in the nuthouse was a dark, dark period, and what finally broke through it, and gave me the feeling that I could get better, was a surf sess I was talked into. I never thought I'd surf again. And after that this goofy diversion that nobody except us understands the allure of, helped to slowlbring me back to happiness. It helped save my life, no bullshs!t. I always look forward to the next time in the water, the feeling it gives me, and the friends i have made through surfing. Lots of memories of great and obscure places I've gone to do it and knowing that there is swell coming sooner or later no matter what you're going through, it's what keeps me centered and happy. It's one of the most important things in my life. I am glad to say I am happy again, and in no small part because of the ocean.
Last edited by tubesock; Feb 11, 2014 at 02:44 AM.
Feb 11, 2014, 02:49 AM #30
I wish you continued happiness and health for you and your whole family and hope the stoke never fades! Surf on Brother!!!!