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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    1,082
    Images
    1
    i surf because it's still a rush, still a thrill....i'm middle-aged and it still makes me giddy, like a child. better than any drug, better than sex. i surf because i still can.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
    Posts
    1,747
    Images
    1
    I surf because I like to surf

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,623
    It is the fountain of youth. And the beauty of mother ocean, and all the cool things you see out there. Plus the feeling...it's like flying when you're zipping past people and rocks and over reef and past jetties, and you know if you eat it, it will hurt, but you somehow pull it off, like Slater at Backdoor (in your mind), and the crowd goes nuts! And the feeling you get as you exit the ocean after a session, like being reborn. Other that that, surfing has ruined my life.

  4. #14
    i surf because you look really cool driving around with boards on top of your car.

  5. #15
    Because it keeps me sane..and I need to be in

  6. #16
    I surf cause I like pulling wax out of my chest/belly hair.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Shoting Piers in Honeyton
    Posts
    2,525
    I surf to stop the voices in my head.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    402
    I could go on for days about why I surf but instead I'll just put it like this. If I lost everything, money, family, friends, whatever anything. As long as I could still surf I would be ok. I'd still have something to live for.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,240
    Anytime I can get out on the water makes the entire day special.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    yonder
    Posts
    173
    I surf because...

    I like the ffffpppppptt sound of the spray falling behind a wave. I like the view of the calm water surface from below as I come up from a duck dive. The feeling of raindrops on the soles of my feet. The muted sound of a snowfall. The long walk back from the places my friends won't go. The color and glow of the wave face as the sun shines through.

    I like the the momentary lapse of reason during a ride when I don't think about anything. I like the sunrises. The sunsets. The glide and slide. The girls in bikinis. I like the idea that I'm harnessing energy that has traveled thousands of miles. The little inputs to trim a longboard on a long wall. The sway of sea grass and jetties. The feeling of being horizontal, punching through the back of the wave but feeling my feet still planted firmly on the board.

    I like watching raindrops bounce up into the air during a downpour. Seeing someone else get a nugget. The feeling of the g-force of a steep bottom turn. The weightlessness of a re-entry. Diving deep under a breaking wave only to find calmness and peace. And sitting for hours in the parking lot bullshatting about nothing.

    I like the pelicans, seals, bunker, dolphins, and tiny jellyfish that get stuck between my fingers as I paddle. Most of all it feels good and makes me a better person. And of course, I like the view from the occasional private little coverup and the opening at the end which leads to more waves.

    What bums me out is that I get blank stares when I explain these things to friends and coworkers who don't surf. So the only answer is to surf more to feel better about that. It works.