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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    highlands, nj
    Posts
    230
    Images
    21
    Best medicine in the world. Keeps me happy and healthy whenever I have any pain. Whether its anger, frustration, or sadness, I can usually get right after 2 hours in the water. Only a few times have I thought of Iraq in the water, and that's because I brought it in. Some mornings its tough to shake the images of nightmares. But most of the time, surfing keeps me straight.

  2. #22
    I feel like this is 1) the tenth thread of its type in the last year, and 2) something I've voluntarily digressed on countless times here. But it's a great affirmation so I'll do it again.

    I charge waves because it makes me feel more closely knit with the natural world than most anything else. I also charge waves because it's so damn hard and I'm still so piss poor that each day I go HAM with a smile I'm so much better after for it even though I've still got so, so far to go in the grand scheme. Not often can we see and feel our daily progress in our endeavors. I feel that's always on the table when I hit the water - I can clearly observe the outcomes of immersing myself in the process that day. Lastly, I charge waves in anticipation for the times I actually am able to "surf" waves. As in, execute well enough that I'm actually resembling a moderately acceptable level of proficiency in the act.

    It's been some of, if not the best therapy I've ever had on a day to day basis in my entire life. I've met some awesome people that I genuinely get to be friends with rather quickly and it's taking me to many beautiful parts of the world I've yet to see. It also is invaluable to us for the sheer fact of keeping us in check with the fragility of life in that one rip or rogue wave can put us and those around us in jeopardy.

    Surfing tosses to the side all the crap in society and this life that keeps us from feeling truly alive.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    490
    I read this thread grinning like an insane man. Great descriptions and yes, it has been said before, but as Emass says, it's good to reaffirm from time to time. I surf because I'm a better person when I get out of the water.
    viajerodevida
    I know what you mean. Trying to describe the total ocean experience to my friends that don't surf is a painful experience.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    in the tits
    Posts
    37
    i surf because chicks dig it

  5. What else is there to do honestly? When its flat we wish for waves, we skate on our cruisers replicating pumping through barrels, its a sense of importance and dedication. Going out when its 0 degrees is just a thing we jersey boys do to fill our fix. Summer sucks after all, we vacation across the globe in search of perfect waves.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Atlantic City
    Posts
    1,857

    Cool why do YOU surf? top ten for me…..

    1) if exercise was a pill everybody would be taking it.
    2) i have a lot of time/money/effort sunk into it.
    3) i buy into the notion of 'life aspirin.'
    4) i have a fantasy that i actually AM kelly slater.
    5) i don't like phonys and there seem to be less of them out surfing.
    6) i respect the ocean; as such (so far) i can play in it without repercussions others would
    suffer.
    7) although i'm hardly underweight it seems to have made me 'less fat.'
    8) it encouraged me to travel as such my horizons have broadened.
    9) it seems to be easier to make true friends w/surfer types than with general public.
    10) it is fun that does not leave a footprint.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    in the grace of the most holy FSM
    Posts
    3,179
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    For me, it changed over time... at first it was because I had really bad allergies as a kid, and it was the only time I felt normal in the summer. Then I noticed that all the cute girls loved surfers... big bonus for me. Then, once I started getting good, it became my obsession and life's pursuit... pushing myself to my physical limit, which I feel I never really found. This is when I hit my peak, and consumed and dominated everything I did... every thought, deed, and dollar. Then it became my escape from all the badness in my life... an "asprin" of sorts. Now it just gives me peace.

    this pretty much nails it. i feel like this, or something like it, is the answer you'd get if you posed this question to most of the old(er) surfers in the line up who've been at it consistently since they were young(er).


  8. #28
    i have nothing better to do.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    3 hrs. from sand
    Posts
    52
    I surf for both superficial and spiritual reasons. Superficially, I figured I looked cool when I was 19 and had a neon short board and I honestly loved the image. Yep, I even felt cool with it on my car. I admit it. And in some ways I still like that. Now I am 46, married, have had a severely handicapped daughter and lost her at age eight, have had two more healthy children, have a stressful career and have made poor investment choices and found myself in a lot of debt, had a complete nervous breakdown with a month in a mental institution and an attempt at my own life, and a lot of major highs and catastrophic lows. My funk surrounding that stint in the nuthouse was a dark, dark period, and what finally broke through it, and gave me the feeling that I could get better, was a surf sess I was talked into. I never thought I'd surf again. And after that this goofy diversion that nobody except us understands the allure of, helped to slowlbring me back to happiness. It helped save my life, no bullshs!t. I always look forward to the next time in the water, the feeling it gives me, and the friends i have made through surfing. Lots of memories of great and obscure places I've gone to do it and knowing that there is swell coming sooner or later no matter what you're going through, it's what keeps me centered and happy. It's one of the most important things in my life. I am glad to say I am happy again, and in no small part because of the ocean.
    Last edited by tubesock; Feb 11, 2014 at 01:44 AM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Your Mom's Vag
    Posts
    1,795
    Quote Originally Posted by tubesock View Post
    I surf because for both superficial and deep, spiritual reasons. Superficially, I figured I looked cool when I was 19 and had a neon short board and I honestly loved the image. Yep, I even felt cool with it on my car. I admit it. Now I am 46, married, have had a severely handicapped daughter and lost her at age eight, have had two more healthy children, have a stressful career and have made poor investment choices and found myself in a lot of debt, had a complete nervous breakdown with a month in a mental institution and an attempt at my own life, and a lot of major highs and catastrophic lows. My funk surrounding that stint in the nuthouse was a dark, dark period, and what finally broke through it, and gave me the feeling that I could get better, was a surf sees I was talked into. I never thought I'd surf again. And after that this goofy diversion that nobody except us understands the allure of, helped to bring me back to happiness. It helped save my life, no bullshs!t. I always look forward to the next time in the water, the feeling it gives me, and the friends i have made through surfing. Lots of memories of great and obscure places I've gone to do it and knowing that there is swell coming sooner or later no matter what you're going through, it's what keeps me centered and happy. It's one of the most important things in my life. I am glad to say I am happy again, and in no small part because of the ocean.
    Wow man I'm almost at a loss for words, which as many here know is not typical. My condolences on the loss of your daughter. This is one of the best redemption stories I have ever heard. I am very glad to hear that surfing brought you back from the edge of that "cliff" you were on. I think this speaks volumes to the way the simple act of wave sliding can bring a joy to a surfers life that only another surfer could ever understand. My son is 8 and I honestly could not imagine losing him and not sure if anything would ever bring me joy again if I did, but I would venture to say that surfing perhaps would be the only thing that might.

    I wish you continued happiness and health for you and your whole family and hope the stoke never fades! Surf on Brother!!!!