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  1. I surf because it taps into the wilderness of the mind.

  2. Quote Originally Posted by tubesock View Post
    I surf for both superficial and spiritual reasons. Superficially, I figured I looked cool when I was 19 and had a neon short board and I honestly loved the image. Yep, I even felt cool with it on my car. I admit it. And in some ways I still like that. Now I am 46, married, have had a severely handicapped daughter and lost her at age eight, have had two more healthy children, have a stressful career and have made poor investment choices and found myself in a lot of debt, had a complete nervous breakdown with a month in a mental institution and an attempt at my own life, and a lot of major highs and catastrophic lows. My funk surrounding that stint in the nuthouse was a dark, dark period, and what finally broke through it, and gave me the feeling that I could get better, was a surf sess I was talked into. I never thought I'd surf again. And after that this goofy diversion that nobody except us understands the allure of, helped to slowlbring me back to happiness. It helped save my life, no bullshs!t. I always look forward to the next time in the water, the feeling it gives me, and the friends i have made through surfing. Lots of memories of great and obscure places I've gone to do it and knowing that there is swell coming sooner or later no matter what you're going through, it's what keeps me centered and happy. It's one of the most important things in my life. I am glad to say I am happy again, and in no small part because of the ocean.
    Started to type so many sentences and keep backspacing.... Speechless. I do know the incredible power of the water to help one heal first hand. Thanks for sharing and I wish you the best. God bless your family.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    992
    TS: Thanks so much for sharing that. Very thought and emotion provoking. We have a special needs daughter: cranial-facial syndrome, a tracheostomy, and a lot of surgeries over the years. She's 16, the youngest of our four children, and will likely be with us until my wife and I are gone.
    I didn't surf until 17 months ago at the age of 57, but it has helped me deal with some of the stresses of life and putting things in proper perspective. In this regard, surfing is much more than just recreation for me. I'm also grateful that I can get out on the water - especially in the winter time. I used to be involved in Filipino martial arts; but after that first ride on a board, my gi and kali sticks have remained in the closet. So many people my age don't do much of anything that's physically challenging. I'm not ready for the golf course. You'll never catch me out there.
    Best wishes to you and yours. Take care, maintain the stoke, and keep hanging in there.

    RC: Really good response to TS's post.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    A State of Confusion
    Posts
    1,611
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    RC: Really good response to TS's post.
    Thanks man. I wish you the best too with your daughter and her health. That is awesome that you strated surfing when most guys your age are slowing down and playing checkers in the park . Hate to sound like the little kid from Point Break but surfing really is the fountain of youth, it will keep you young in mind and body. And hey golf can be fun too you just need some "beverages" to make it so

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    3,908
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by CBSCREWBY View Post
    I read this thread grinning like an insane man.
    Same here SCREWBY. Going through some stuff at the moment, nothing compared to the struggles mentioned by others, but I was reading this thread last night and and it was really touching, and affirming. I'm finding harder and harder to relate to people who don't feel so passionately abouth the Ocean, the Earth, and life in general(all of which riding waves riding waves keeps me tapped into).

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    ethernet
    Posts
    2,044
    TS, that was powerful, take care!
    everyone else, good to see a myriad of every reason
    I dont know exactly why I surf, I just like it, but I think it had something to do with tubes and being in the tube. I just want tubes Also, its non boring exercise. Running, the gym, etc, all SUPER BORING.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Science mother****er
    Posts
    2,426
    Quote Originally Posted by MakeItStop View Post
    TS, that was powerful, take care!
    everyone else, good to see a myriad of every reason
    I dont know exactly why I surf, I just like it, but I think it had something to do with tubes and being in the tube. I just want tubes Also, its non boring exercise. Running, the gym, etc, all SUPER BORING.
    Running isn't too bad, as it gives me a chance to space out and think about things at the same time. I would much rather surf everyday, but that just isn't possible with my work schedule (and the fact that SC has fickle surf). My main reason for surfing is because I like the physical conditioning aspect, and I also love the water.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    ethernet
    Posts
    2,044
    running aint bad here, the bike path has all manner of interesting thongs, er ah, I mean things. Running in the cold back east would do me dirty

  9. #39
    Tubesock, very inspirational, and certainly makes the little things I'm feeling bad for myself about seem trivial. The longer version of that story would probably make for an amazing book that would help a lot of people. Keep doing what you're doing.

  10. #40
    Surfing was a way to coo my azz down. It really help after my 1st marriage. Before I married Beelzebub's twin sister, I was a pacifist. After, I quick to pass a fist across some lips. Luckily for me, the waves were big and gnarly for the 5 years it took for me to get over it. Getting the crap beat out of me has a humbling, and therapeutic effect.