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Thread: I Surf Because...
Feb 11, 2014, 02:12 AM #31Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
Feb 11, 2014, 03:06 AM #32
TS: Thanks so much for sharing that. Very thought and emotion provoking. We have a special needs daughter: cranial-facial syndrome, a tracheostomy, and a lot of surgeries over the years. She's 16, the youngest of our four children, and will likely be with us until my wife and I are gone.
I didn't surf until 17 months ago at the age of 57, but it has helped me deal with some of the stresses of life and putting things in proper perspective. In this regard, surfing is much more than just recreation for me. I'm also grateful that I can get out on the water - especially in the winter time. I used to be involved in Filipino martial arts; but after that first ride on a board, my gi and kali sticks have remained in the closet. So many people my age don't do much of anything that's physically challenging. I'm not ready for the golf course. You'll never catch me out there.
Best wishes to you and yours. Take care, maintain the stoke, and keep hanging in there.
RC: Really good response to TS's post.
Feb 11, 2014, 12:47 PM #33
Feb 11, 2014, 01:01 PM #34
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Feb 11, 2014, 03:22 PM #35
TS, that was powerful, take care!
everyone else, good to see a myriad of every reason
I dont know exactly why I surf, I just like it, but I think it had something to do with tubes and being in the tube. I just want tubes Also, its non boring exercise. Running, the gym, etc, all SUPER BORING.
Feb 11, 2014, 03:33 PM #36
Feb 11, 2014, 03:52 PM #37
running aint bad here, the bike path has all manner of interesting thongs, er ah, I mean things. Running in the cold back east would do me dirty
Feb 11, 2014, 04:27 PM #38
Tubesock, very inspirational, and certainly makes the little things I'm feeling bad for myself about seem trivial. The longer version of that story would probably make for an amazing book that would help a lot of people. Keep doing what you're doing.
Feb 11, 2014, 04:30 PM #39
Surfing was a way to coo my azz down. It really help after my 1st marriage. Before I married Beelzebub's twin sister, I was a pacifist. After, I quick to pass a fist across some lips. Luckily for me, the waves were big and gnarly for the 5 years it took for me to get over it. Getting the crap beat out of me has a humbling, and therapeutic effect.
a genuine post with no hate and a meaningful message? holy cow where am I? thanks for sharing all. seriously gained from that. and it's great to hear the relative truth that although 99% of people like to think of us as the
"woah dude can you pass be another bong rip braaaaaaahhhhh???" stereotype . . .
we are actually some of the wisest and most genuinely appreciative people on earth. I mean what other sub-culture is so inclined to unconditional generosity and friendliness, as people that are connected with the largest and most powerful force on our planet.
I think we can all relate to this. . .
One day at one of the best rights in all of buxton, on a serious south swell, three of my friends and I shared overhead barrel after draining barrel for a solid three and a half hours before two other guys, father and son, from Hampton came out. They were cool, and we had already scored so hard we didn't mind sharing a few. the son wound up going down on a drop and being caught inside right in the barrel zone. I took off on one of the last waves of a big set, and jumped off after finally seeing that we were on a collision course. Unfortunately it was too late, and his fins (brand new I later found out) pierced my board's foam all the way to the stringer and even pulled some foam out onto his fins! granted we both had to go in, and although I had just gotten the board, I couldn't be mad about it. Every instinct in my mind was screaming to just rock this dude in the face, but I had just scored so hard with my best friends that it just didn't matter. I had another board, and I didn't get hurt, so all in all, what was there to be mad about? he apologized, told me about screwing up his drop, and handed me a sandwich and a bowl rip, and I couldn't have been happier. There is something to be said for the flood of endorphins that will overwhelm you when you see your friends score and your friends just saw you score. The guy was so tripped out that I didn't care. I didn't stop smiling for a week after that, and still relish in the memory on these flat spells.
Basically. . . I surf because . . . there is no replacing the feeling of post barrel euphoria. and nothing can get you down if you can achieve it. The waves I've seen my friends get are just as much in my memory as my own waves. and I'm so happy for them because I shared the opposite with them.