I surf because it taps into the wilderness of the mind.
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Thread: I Surf Because...
Feb 11, 2014, 02:09 AM #31Senior Member
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- Jul 2011
Feb 11, 2014, 02:12 AM #32Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
Feb 11, 2014, 03:06 AM #33
TS: Thanks so much for sharing that. Very thought and emotion provoking. We have a special needs daughter: cranial-facial syndrome, a tracheostomy, and a lot of surgeries over the years. She's 16, the youngest of our four children, and will likely be with us until my wife and I are gone.
I didn't surf until 17 months ago at the age of 57, but it has helped me deal with some of the stresses of life and putting things in proper perspective. In this regard, surfing is much more than just recreation for me. I'm also grateful that I can get out on the water - especially in the winter time. I used to be involved in Filipino martial arts; but after that first ride on a board, my gi and kali sticks have remained in the closet. So many people my age don't do much of anything that's physically challenging. I'm not ready for the golf course. You'll never catch me out there.
Best wishes to you and yours. Take care, maintain the stoke, and keep hanging in there.
RC: Really good response to TS's post.
Feb 11, 2014, 12:47 PM #34
Feb 11, 2014, 01:01 PM #35
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Feb 11, 2014, 03:22 PM #36
TS, that was powerful, take care!
everyone else, good to see a myriad of every reason
I dont know exactly why I surf, I just like it, but I think it had something to do with tubes and being in the tube. I just want tubes Also, its non boring exercise. Running, the gym, etc, all SUPER BORING.
Feb 11, 2014, 03:33 PM #37
Feb 11, 2014, 03:52 PM #38
running aint bad here, the bike path has all manner of interesting thongs, er ah, I mean things. Running in the cold back east would do me dirty
Feb 11, 2014, 04:27 PM #39
Tubesock, very inspirational, and certainly makes the little things I'm feeling bad for myself about seem trivial. The longer version of that story would probably make for an amazing book that would help a lot of people. Keep doing what you're doing.
Feb 11, 2014, 04:30 PM #40
Surfing was a way to coo my azz down. It really help after my 1st marriage. Before I married Beelzebub's twin sister, I was a pacifist. After, I quick to pass a fist across some lips. Luckily for me, the waves were big and gnarly for the 5 years it took for me to get over it. Getting the crap beat out of me has a humbling, and therapeutic effect.