a genuine post with no hate and a meaningful message? holy cow where am I? thanks for sharing all. seriously gained from that. and it's great to hear the relative truth that although 99% of people like to think of us as the
"woah dude can you pass be another bong rip braaaaaaahhhhh???" stereotype . . .
we are actually some of the wisest and most genuinely appreciative people on earth. I mean what other sub-culture is so inclined to unconditional generosity and friendliness, as people that are connected with the largest and most powerful force on our planet.
I think we can all relate to this. . .
One day at one of the best rights in all of buxton, on a serious south swell, three of my friends and I shared overhead barrel after draining barrel for a solid three and a half hours before two other guys, father and son, from Hampton came out. They were cool, and we had already scored so hard we didn't mind sharing a few. the son wound up going down on a drop and being caught inside right in the barrel zone. I took off on one of the last waves of a big set, and jumped off after finally seeing that we were on a collision course. Unfortunately it was too late, and his fins (brand new I later found out) pierced my board's foam all the way to the stringer and even pulled some foam out onto his fins! granted we both had to go in, and although I had just gotten the board, I couldn't be mad about it. Every instinct in my mind was screaming to just rock this dude in the face, but I had just scored so hard with my best friends that it just didn't matter. I had another board, and I didn't get hurt, so all in all, what was there to be mad about? he apologized, told me about screwing up his drop, and handed me a sandwich and a bowl rip, and I couldn't have been happier. There is something to be said for the flood of endorphins that will overwhelm you when you see your friends score and your friends just saw you score. The guy was so tripped out that I didn't care. I didn't stop smiling for a week after that, and still relish in the memory on these flat spells.
Basically. . . I surf because . . . there is no replacing the feeling of post barrel euphoria. and nothing can get you down if you can achieve it. The waves I've seen my friends get are just as much in my memory as my own waves. and I'm so happy for them because I shared the opposite with them.
no way. don't be concerned. just let down those defenses little buddy and embrace the brotherhood, of shredding. we all shred, in our own special ways. you don't need to be a young, cocky little ripper dude riding a 5'10"X18 1/4" X 2-1/4" to understand how majestic riding a wave can be. get your shredness on. yes!