That to me is just insane! It would be insane to do it today let alone back then when no one else was doing it and your equipment is basically a tree with no limbs! No leash either! The man doggy paddled for over an hour to get back to shore!
I've surfed some big waves in my lifetime. Big waves in my book.... maybe 20' or so according to good ol' east coast standards. Basically nothing compared to what they surfed that day! I had modern equipment, a leash and wasn't alone out there pioneering a new reef break in Hawaii no less!
Is there a word or words to describe this guy?! Big cahones is the least to say!