1. Is it true that the water gets sucked out to sea prior to tsunami land fall? If so why ?

2. technically I think the wave is traveling like a cylinder, the diameter of the cylinder is the period aka λ the distance between two peaks.....this indicates the area (slice of cylinder) is much bigger as the diameter increases, so a 6 sec period (3^2 π=) 28.x units of water in that cylinder slice and a 12 sec period will have 113 units of water in that slice. I used area of a circle to estimate these values
since this is a cylinder, we would need to include length of cylinder, lets use a unit of 1 just to get a volume

so a 6 sec period has 28 ish units of energy/water
and a 12 sec period has about 113 units of energy/water

I am aware that I did not use proper units , however, I wanted to compare periods see the volume of water/energy in said examples

doubling the period just about quadruples the amount of energy/ volume of water in the wave
Last edited by MakeItStop; Feb 20, 2014 at 04:38 PM.

3. Originally Posted by White Sea Ape
Is it true that the water gets sucked out to sea prior to tsunami land fall? If so why ?
all waves have a trough and a peak, its the trough before the peak

4. Originally Posted by MakeItStop
technically I think the wave is traveling like a cylinder, the diameter of the cylinder is the period aka λ the distance between two peaks.....this indicates the area (slice of cylinder) is much bigger as the diameter increases, so a 6 sec period (3^2 π=) 28.x units of water in that cylinder slice and a 12 sec period will have 113 units of water in that slice. I used area of a circle to estimate these values
since this is a cylinder, we would need to include length of cylinder, lets use a unit of 1 just to get a volume

so a 6 sec period has 28 ish units of energy/water
and a 12 sec period has about 113 units of energy/water

I am aware that I did not use proper units , however, I wanted to compare periods see the volume of water/energy in said examples

doubling the period just about quadruples the amount of energy/ volume of water in the wave
^^^^This is what I was trying to say.

5. Originally Posted by MakeItStop
faster waves have longer wavelength, wavelength(λ) is period (functionally in this case, I understand that period is in sec and λ is in M)

so a longer period=faster wave= more power
v= λf

http://www.surfline.com/surfology/su..._forecast2.cfm
Still not convinced.

v = Phase speed
T= Period (in seconds)
f = Frequency (in 1/seconds, it's the inverse of Period)
λ = wavelength

So, v = λf is the same as v = λ/T. This makes sense considering velocity is defined as change in distance divided by time. If your wavelength stays the same and your period increases, your speed gets smaller.

6. I get what you are saying, there are 2 def for speed of a wave, however, there are no slow long period waves in the ocean, please prove me wrong

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Originally Posted by White Sea Ape
Is it true that the water gets sucked out to sea prior to tsunami land fall? If so why ?
yes that's how they tell when the tsunami is coming.safest place during a tsunami is out in the ocean.on land ur going to get killed.

and u folks didn't get the point on the real estate thing.im not hatin on Hawaii,hawaii is awesome and im happy its part of the us so I don't need a passport.its only Oahu that's the most expensive.they have homes on the lava rock that are supercheap because they don't have electric or plumbing,cant dig into lava.theres parts on the big island that's still undeveloped and super cheap.all im sayin is the prices skyrocketed because of the surf companies.when people go to Hawaii on vacation,they go to Waikiki,not the north shore.the north shore is for surfers,and traveling surfers from all over the world get to pay top price to stay.which is fare.

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lol waterfront has nothing to do with it.look up Mexican real estate in Puerto Escondido.u can have a semi mansion on a mountain over looking the beach with a pool for under 200grand,which is amazing.some might say why would u want to go to mexico..ummm idk

9. Tsunami are a whole new level. The facts on them are crazy. You guys are wowed by the 60 second period, but some go up to 2 hours. Wavelengths (distance from crest to crest) that can exceed 300mi and traveling at a speed more than 700mph. Forget a jet ski, a cigarette boat won't even get you in that wave! No really, they slow down considerably when approaching shallow water (still going damn fast by wave standards) but the power remains and that's why they stack up to severe heights and drive forward.

But they don't even seem to really break - they're just a water wall overrunning the shore and taking down everything. Then it sucks dry (does that prior to the first also - the earlier list was right stating that's its trough).

Most aren't as big or fast as these numbers but they can get that big and fast. Even the "small" ones don't even resemble what we call waves. One interesting thing I've read is that shores that have strong tides and are subject to hurricanes are far more tsunami-resistant than areas that don't see those two phenomena as the erosion to the shelf makes the run-up harder for it.

We know what they can do to us and our coastlines, but think about what they're doing to sea life also? These tsunami are pretty damn deep and are traveling as fast as a jet sometimes so they're definitely taking organisms for a ride to many miles away. Complete ecosystems displaced. Like deep sea scraping times 100.

You can't even call these things waves, at least not what we term as waves. They make Mavericks look like the spray from throwing a bucket on waist-high. The ocean man, there's no other force on earth like it.
Last edited by EmassSpicoli; Feb 21, 2014 at 04:36 AM.

10. Originally Posted by goosemagoo

You will experience this when duck diving a long period swell vs. a short period swell. There's much less of push towards the beach when coming up from a duck dive under a windswell vs a ground swell.
A month ago I was in SoCal for that big WNW swell (same one that Mavs was going off at the time from). Period was as high as 23 seconds. Between my other trips out there and to ES, I've seen real ground swell before, just not often at all. Coming from the EC and having 5-9s be the typical interval day in and out, 23 second period is weird bro. Alls I know is the duck diving felt different, not necessarily harder, but different. I spent most of that day duck diving because every second wave seemed to be a plus set and the "out back" cadence was heard regularly.

The western brahs can tell it more accurately than me since I'm just a kook, but 23s = weird!