It started as a lined-up wave with extra chunk due low/incoming tide….just 2 strokes
i was in and greeted by a 3 section racetrack…made all three sections BARELY…bounced
off the 'towards me' section to end it. basically all i did was pump the board mid face
just enough to make the sections…i was flying!!!! then it was over and nobody saw it….
dude i see your trying to gain swellinfo street cred its cool and i respect that. but you cant throw carolina cutbackz like me so no one cares. i pump 5 times as hard down the line as you and throw airs twice as hard and high. i know new jersey is soposed to be awesome but no, the folly is where the real shredders go.
I got barreled twice in a row yesterday. First wave I pop and kinda backdoor a nice little peak and got shot out. Next wave was the same exact thing. I spent the rest of the day pulling in to close outs trying to do it again. Great day on the Gulf.
Baddy...you surf up north? Or did ya stay south...looked fun mid morning...
this go-out was in so jersey at the popular beach……paddled out early at
the tide change….as soon as tide started to come in…the waves just
started to behave (well)….alone, i wondered where everybody was…guess at the drcf contest in ac….