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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    283
    Woke up just after dawn at my girls house on a fall morning with a text that says "ITS GOING OFF WHERE R U!". No answer on the phone as to where. I get my act together quick and head to the beach. I run up to the board walk already suited up and it is going off clean and over head but no doubt about it I need to poop. i don't want to leave so I go under the boardwalk and lean up against a piling while watching 3 guys getting wave after wave. I Finish my business resuit up grab and paddle out on a narrow 6' 1" thruster ( think new school). when i get to the line up, its my three best surfing buds, including one who texted me, splitting the peaks. I start getting my share. A little later a set comes in and the guys all catch waves. i catch the last one and its a beast. I Race through one section into the next and then everything slowed down. I stalled a bit, hit perfect trim a get a shack of my life that lasted for ever as my best friends are all watching. It was time when we had nothing to do on a early fall weekday so we just surfed, ate, rested, and surfed all day.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    453
    I've been surfing just three years. I started at the tender age of 47... My most memorable surfing was definitely not my best surfing, but it still makes me smile when I think about it. 2 summers ago when I knew nothing about board selection, I purchased a mini simmons with very little rocker because, "They ride and catch waves like a long board," and couldn't figure out why I was eating it on hollow waves. I pearl dove and ate so much sand... I refused to give up though, and when the tide filled in, the waves got mushy and suddenly I was catching waves. Yes, straight handers all of them, but I was getting nice long rides and felt like a champ. That was the day I really started looking at conditions, looking for peaks, thinking about board shapes, and started thinking I could tell people I surfed.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    21N 158W give or take
    Posts
    1,336
    some of my best NJ barrels this weekend:
    http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_10_18_njersey.cfm

    cant believe it was almost 10 years ago

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by World B Frielinghaus View Post
    Had a session a few years ago at the Hatteras Lighthouse that still makes me smile. Clean, shoulder high, longboard waves. Beautiful fall day, sunshine in abundance and not too many folks out.

    As a preface; I once read a fictional story about some surfers who had invented an eye drop which allowed them to "see" the inner workings of the waves they were riding. Colored lines would appear on the wave faces to indicate the perfect line and allow glory rides every time. Yeah right, if only...

    In a former life, as a basketball player I used to be able to get "hot" for a quarter, a half, or even a full game. Every shot goes in and the ball just seems to find you. The game slows down and you see where people are going to be before they get there. A rare occurrence for me, but the kind of thing that makes all the hard work seem worth it!

    This happened to me on a surfboard for the first time that day. Oh sure, I have had the odd ride here and there where I was tuned in. But I got "HOT" boys and girls! Every wave came to the spot where I was. People to my left and right were missing these same waves because they had my name on them. I was seeing the waves like I rarely do.

    The ocean was just allowing me to read it like a book and I was literally one with the waves. For 20 - 25 minutes I was just going off. Ride after ride after ride! Long nose-rides like never before, smooth transitions, and uncanny moments where the wave was beckoning me to follow it.

    Then just like that, it was over. Wind shifted and things settled down. I knew something really special had happened when strangers in the parking lot were coming by and grinning and giving high-fives! I'm not the guy who surfs well enough to be noticed, but that day I was.

    Don't know if this confluence of events will ever occur to me again, but that's OK, It happened once and that was so cool! I'm sure many of you know what I'm talking about. It is for these precious moments that we surf!

    Slide on.
    World B. Free,
    The occurrence from your NBA days is popularly known as The Zone. An enlightened residency of peak performance where the individual loses sense of time yet gains a feeling of complete connectedness and union with their equipment and environment (e.g. the board IS an extension of your legs; you ARE the wave) and execution becomes flawless and effortless whilst they are in a mental/emotional sublime of calm ecstasy.

    Athletes spend their entire careers wishing to get in this flow even for brief periods. Those who have been there still live to recount the fantastical experience as if it were folklore. The Zone is so elusive and fragile, however, it's a dimension that we can get to frequently with the right mental (and physical) practice.

    The Zone is what it's all about, bro. Glad you've set foot in that flow before.

    BTW, bro, I've got your 1986-87 Fleer card in excellent to near mint condition. What's about taking a sharpie and donning your siggy on it? I'm good for a fish taco in return next time you're in EMass.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Chiba City
    Posts
    101
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    World B. Free

    The Zone is what it's all about, bro. Glad you've set foot in that flow before.

    BTW, bro, I've got your 1986-87 Fleer card in excellent to near mint condition. What's about taking a sharpie and donning your siggy on it? I'm good for a fish taco in return next time you're in EMass.
    Haha. Too true E! The zone is ever shifting and hard to catch. You sure as hell know it when you do find yourself in it! Fleeting but joyful.

    Yeah man, I can still rain jumpers better than I'll ever surf! My glory days if you'll recall were as a Sixer in the Seventies. Used to hit those 23 ft Jersey barrels with The Dr! See you in New England some day brother. Taco's are on me.

    Slide on.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,150
    I've been progressing at a pretty solid rate the past year or two and so it seems that most days out are my best sessions yet. Each session I get better so every time out has felt that way for the most part. The waves don't always make the session, but they sure do help. I've had solid sessions in less than stellar conditions but found that zone and made a sh*t day feel like epic conditions. Just depends how you feel when you get out of the water. If you're smiling then put it on the list...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    800
    The last time I surfed: it was supposed to be flat last Thursday but I checked it and brought my handmade 6'4" swallow tail fish.

    It was warm and sunny and the water was low to mid 70s, so no wettie. When I first looked at it it was almost flat, then a little bump, and I saw a guy catch a real weak wave. I strolled down past the spot and paddled out and proceeded to catch a couple of little ones and rode them well. The tide started to go out a bit, and the wind died and sets started to come in about waist high with stomach high peaks, and the lefts that were against the grain were fast and real rampy. There were tourists trying to body board and a couple more guys showed up and it got real fun. The Zone was found, and lots of spray was thrown, and a few floaters were made, and I surprised myself that I could surf small waves so well. And it was on a board I made for such weak conditions. It went real fast and turned real smooth and didn't bog out or catch rail, it just went with the wave. I made it with a bit more rocker than a normal fish, so it fit real good in some of the steep little sections.

    Everyone out surfing ( all 5 of us ) caught many waves and no one hassled any one. Hoots were heard for good peaks and one of the kids was launching and landing airs.

    Walking out of the ocean with an ear to ear smile, it was truly a surprise that on such a small day, such good fun can be had.
    Last edited by sisurfdogg; Feb 25, 2014 at 01:14 PM.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    I've been progressing at a pretty solid rate the past year or two and so it seems that most days out are my best sessions yet. Each session I get better so every time out has felt that way for the most part. The waves don't always make the session, but they sure do help. I've had solid sessions in less than stellar conditions but found that zone and made a sh*t day feel like epic conditions. Just depends how you feel when you get out of the water. If you're smiling then put it on the list...
    Yo DP! We were in the line up together on some of my most memorable days. TS Bertha, Bill, Ivan (in the gulf). But I agree that as I progress, my sessions seem to get better and better.

    Hard to pick one, so here are a few all time sessions for me. Irene leftovers in 2010 were sick. Head high to a little overhead all day long. Surfed til I couldn't move anymore. Most recently, I've had some awesome winter swell in Jax beach where the drops were big, the waves were long and clean and the middle section barrelled. Those days when you hit three sessions because you can't get enough keep me going when it is flat.

    This is my favorite recent picture from a swell we got just before Thanksgiving 2013 2013.jpg

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by MakeItStop View Post
    some of my best NJ barrels this weekend:
    http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_10_18_njersey.cfm

    cant believe it was almost 10 years ago
    That's sick! Can't believe that's east coast either!

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    got my first real, solid barrel ride in PR a while back. Nothing like that first taste of the Juice...
    That is the truth you speak. More addicting than anything in my opinion.