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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    601
    Reasons why I believe people surf in cold weather.

    - no crowd
    - free and widely available parking
    - massive waves
    - stress release (that's year round)
    - good excuse to get some outdoor exercise
    - riding a wave makes you feel really good

    Maybe not so simple, but:

    - the feeling of accomplishment. When I get home from a morning session and it's 10F outside, I kinda feel like I did something most people wouldn't do. I like that feeling.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    You Know, ME
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by ncardillo View Post
    the 'why' is where I'm stumped. Obviously the east coast, at least NJ, is primarily dead in the warm months. And then in the winter, a switch gets flipped and abracadabra, there are waves!

    Now my question, and I apologize for this being so long, is simply why does this happen. Why does the proverbial "switch" get flipped? What happens in the weather, in the water, and in the air?

    If you guys or gals could answer that for me, that would be phenomenal. Thank you!
    I think a lot of us on here are missing the kids question.
    Everyone knows "why" we go out. Simply put - its way better conditions (swell wise). I believe he is asking the why is the swell better?? More science than philosophy.

    I dont know exactly just trying to get the question redirected.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    in the grace of the most holy FSM
    Posts
    3,354
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck'd View Post
    I think a lot of us on here are missing the kids question.
    Everyone knows "why" we go out. Simply put - its way better conditions (swell wise). I believe he is asking the why is the swell better?? More science than philosophy.

    I dont know exactly just trying to get the question redirected.
    maybe the kid should do his own research & figure it out for himself.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    highlands, nj
    Posts
    234
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    21
    Surfing really is a medicine of sorts for me. It helps so many people by allowing them to create in an athletic manner. People often show their personality through their surfing. However, many aggressive rippers are super quiet and introverted. For me it keeps me sane and happy. Im a combat vet marine with a few issues from Iraq and I suffered a traumatic brain injury during training in 29 palms CA. When the symptoms of tbi and ptsd combine, I really struggle to not go completely crazy and over protective of everything. Iraq turned on some switches in my head that are nearly impossible to turn off. But surfing helps me maintain balance even on the days I completely suck. If you are interested at all about learning a bit more about how the war on terror changes a persons internal make up, please read my story. Its called The Song Each Bullet Sings. If nothing else, surfing has helped me move away from some of the nightmares. Vietnam vets have helped me big time and told me that "those nightmares will always be there. You just have to be able to put them in a drawer in your mind, and open it and close it on your terms the best way you can." Surfing, especially during this frigid winter, helps me do that. Good luck man.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    Surfing really is a medicine of sorts for me. It helps so many people by allowing them to create in an athletic manner. People often show their personality through their surfing. However, many aggressive rippers are super quiet and introverted. For me it keeps me sane and happy. Im a combat vet marine with a few issues from Iraq and I suffered a traumatic brain injury during training in 29 palms CA. When the symptoms of tbi and ptsd combine, I really struggle to not go completely crazy and over protective of everything. Iraq turned on some switches in my head that are nearly impossible to turn off. But surfing helps me maintain balance even on the days I completely suck. If you are interested at all about learning a bit more about how the war on terror changes a persons internal make up, please read my story. Its called The Song Each Bullet Sings. If nothing else, surfing has helped me move away from some of the nightmares. Vietnam vets have helped me big time and told me that "those nightmares will always be there. You just have to be able to put them in a drawer in your mind, and open it and close it on your terms the best way you can." Surfing, especially during this frigid winter, helps me do that. Good luck man.
    Thank you for your service. If you can't put those demons to rest, hopefully you can at least put them on a leash. Best of luck to you Mattyb.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    highlands, nj
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    21
    Thanks man. I really like "put the demons on a leash." Try and at least control them or let em come out while being creative. Great way to look at it. Thanks tlokein

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    Thanks man. I really like "put the demons on a leash." Try and at least control them or let em come out while being creative. Great way to look at it. Thanks tlokein
    Anytime man. I've got friends and family that have served (some still do) over multiple generations. Wife's grandpa was a tank gunner in the 737th in WWII. Used to love getting him to talk about it before he passed away.

    People (myself included) can debate endlessly the reasons we go to war and if they are legit or not, but always respect those who served.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Surfin_nj View Post
    If you truly love surfing you'll surf in any temperature,.
    Not true. Total nonsense. For some/many people it ruins it.

    I don't consider anyone a true surfer if they only surf in the summer because anyone can surf in the summer and how is someone to improve if they only do it for 1 season a year?
    Actually 3 seasons a year considering winter is only one season and people from cali/hawaii who surf 5 days a week in head high waves could and DO say the same thing about you boys on the ec.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Surfin_nj View Post
    If you truly love surfing you'll surf in any temperature,
    If you were really that dedicated you'd move where there's surf regularly rather than waiting for weeks at time for a descent swell sometimes.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck'd View Post
    I think a lot of us on here are missing the kids question.
    Everyone knows "why" we go out. Simply put - its way better conditions (swell wise). I believe he is asking the why is the swell better?? More science than philosophy.

    I dont know exactly just trying to get the question redirected.
    Fall has bigger and more powerful waves than winter due to hurricanes. Also, spring can have bigger and is more consistent. The reason summer is flat is due to lack of frontal systems and jet stream going farther north. Storms= winds = swell

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