With Paulownia you don't need any seal coat either, right? It doesn't absorb saltwater...just shape the wood and go. Is the same true for Cedar, or is best to seal the board?
Chuck - last week I was out in the water and saw a dude with a wooden fish. I thought to myself "this has to be the one and only Charles Taylor". I paddled over to him and asked who made the board. He said he did, so I asked if he was from York. He took great pride in informing me he was from Oregon, as if it's really cool to be from there.
Mr White Sea Ape - why would I be scared? I'm not made of Latex.
Results 61 to 70 of 73
Thread: Hws blanks
Apr 15, 2014, 03:06 PM #61
Apr 15, 2014, 03:25 PM #62Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Cackalacka border beaches
No, a board more dense (heavier) of the same displacement does not float as well as a lighter, less dense board. A 12lb. hull will not sit as high in the water as a 7lb. hull of the same exact size. And ride much different too. Heavy gathers momentum and lighter lets you turn quicker. Guess it comes down to what you are into and how you like to surf, really. Trim stylists might like heavier cues, climb and drop dudes might like the lighter boards. Seems to me heavy boards are more fun as singles and multi fins are more fun lighter. IMHO.
Apr 15, 2014, 03:51 PM #63
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
clemson is absolutely right, the soild alias and other solid boards have no where for water to go inside so oil is just fine always and probably worry free for the most part. the hollow boards with oil to waterproof present a challenge, but it is possible as i have discovered. pressure testing is a huge part of it and it does require maintenance. it helps if the glue up is really good and its an epoxy glue, and meatier wall thickness helps too so there is ample wood to hold pressures. I will be experimenting with sealing the interior of the blanks as well with certain treatments, one of which is a homemade blend of in house harvest white pine sap, bees wax and some other ingredients, which can coat the wood inside when applied hot, to act as an internal waterproofing and filleting material. But all of this is irrelevant when epoxy resin is used for sealing, to create that hard plastic sealing barrier around the board is the absolute best I think.
Im definitely all for the use of epoxy resin, but am aiming for a product that can thrive without it for the sealing element. some "green" resins do exist, like entropy resin, but I think that product is just a green washing marketing jibe, epoxy resins are mostly bad stuff as far as the environmental goes, but also the human handling element is the nicest to get away from and this is relevant to the laymen who i want to market these blanks too.
Apr 15, 2014, 08:03 PM #66
Braddah you cant just lay the pics down without some dims??
They look really clean tho. Good job mate.
Liked it on Facebook. The boards look good. Curious about pricing and shipping info. Are they cost prohibitive to ship? Is it easy to screw up once you start sanding?
May 28, 2014, 04:05 PM #70