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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Mase
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    Best ocean bottom for groundswell

    Got some groundswell coming, whats the best type of sandbar for longer period groundswell. Would a reef or point break be the best?

  2. #2
    a point made out of really, really small pebbles.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Lewes, DE
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    Sandbars, in general, are not as good as reef breaks or point breaks in handling ground swell.
    Why is this?

    When we refer to "ground swells" we are referring to longer period swells. These longer period swells will refract towards the coast much more so then with shorter period swells. So, the waves will refract toward the coast and break more perpendicular to the coast rather then at a wider angle. When the waves break perpendicular, they tend to close out at beach breaks as opposed to when they come from an angle.

    Reef breaks that are off the coast a bit, will not be as subjected to perpendicular refraction. All reefs breaks and beach breaks are different, so these are just generalizations, and each spot will handle varying swells different based on wave height, wave period, and wave direction.

    Point breaks, handle longer period swells much better, since the refraction tends to wrap around the point.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Atlantic City
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    [QUOTE=Swellinfo;225006

    Point breaks, handle longer period swells much better, since the refraction tends to wrap around the point.[/QUOTE]

    and (the practical application of such) up shows our beloved 'crease' or even better a 'whip crack' which
    chicama and herradura and harrison ford and ice skaters and jet ski assist propulsion does….

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    sea
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    Sandbars, in general, are not as good as reef breaks or point breaks in handling ground swell.
    Why is this?

    When we refer to "ground swells" we are referring to longer period swells. These longer period swells will refract towards the coast much more so then with shorter period swells. So, the waves will refract toward the coast and break more perpendicular to the coast rather then at a wider angle. When the waves break perpendicular, they tend to close out at beach breaks as opposed to when they come from an angle.

    Reef breaks that are off the coast a bit, will not be as subjected to perpendicular refraction. All reefs breaks and beach breaks are different, so these are just generalizations, and each spot will handle varying swells different based on wave height, wave period, and wave direction.

    Point breaks, handle longer period swells much better, since the refraction tends to wrap around the point.
    in English please,just kidding.

    all I know is big groundswells usually close out the local beaches.the only 2 spots in my area that can handle the size is squan inlet and Montauk.as far as sandbars go,shallow bump leads to toobs,and a gentle slope leads to crummy peelers

  6. #6
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    Montauk point turtles and ditch. oops, did I just give away "secret-spots-brobrah-keep-it-to-the-locals" spots?

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenFlash35 View Post
    a point made out of really, really small pebbles.
    I love it in the winter when they stop combing the beaches up here and you get those sandbars that are perfectly covered in small pebbles. Always had the best days of surf in the winter, and not always because of bigger waves, but because of the bars.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by cepriano View Post
    in English please,just kidding.

    all I know is big groundswells usually close out the local beaches.the only 2 spots in my area that can handle the size is squan inlet and Montauk.as far as sandbars go,shallow bump leads to toobs,and a gentle slope leads to crummy peelers
    Bad information. Actually a shallow short sandbar is the absolute worst type of sandbar to handle groundswell and a more gentle gradual slope is best. Crummy peelers as you refer to them are simply due to a gradual slope not able to turn a 8 second period swell into a tube. BUT, give that same gradual long sanbar a 14 second period and you have yourself a tube that actually has a chance of not closing out. Unlike with a short sandbar where the bar is simply overpowered by the swell and the wave become TOO heavy and becomes a unmakable 15 block close out death pit.

    If you look at a good sandbar working like puerto escondido or ocean beach in san fran with a powerful groundwell in the water then you can see how far out the waves are breaking. While much of nj steep beaches can handle an 8-10 second local swell great, give it a more powerful swell and it's no good.

    Here's a video of san fran's sandbar is a SERIOUS MACKING swell.
    http://vimeo.com/64207259
    How the HELL do they paddle out through that? What kind of crack/roids are these guys on.

    You can see how FAR out the waves break. That's because of a long sandbar. You'll never have a beach break able to handle a big time hurricane swell without a proper sandbar.
    Last edited by shark-hunter; Mar 17, 2014 at 11:32 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    21N 158W give or take
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    I love reaidng sharkhunters posts, so much internet talk and no clue about actual surfing waves, its awesome.

    No beach breaks can handle big swell, puerto, blacks, supertubes, etc, all cant handle big waves, all closed over 3 feet...
    I wonder has sharkhunter actually seen these things he talks about or just makes it up. Supertubes and Nazare breaks rather close and so do some other top notch heavy beachies, but hey what do I know, I just went there and surfed them instead of pounding bs into a keyboard

    if if someone wants to quote me so turkuunter can see it, cool, if not, cool too.

    between this guy and young William, this place is a total gas....
    Last edited by MakeItStop; Mar 17, 2014 at 11:43 PM.

  10. #10
    Dominical and Matapalo in CR have rock bottom, tho Matapalo is also a point break.