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  1. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,745
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    26
    Ohh, and scripps and La Jolla shores are just fine... From a scientific standpoint, Ocean Beach picks up every swell angle, 365 days of the year. It is exposed to NW, WNW, W, SW, SSW etc. Other than Blacks and the La Jolla reefs, they are more fickle. Just look at a map and you will see how they are not exposed to certain swells, but like the other guy said, OB beach breaks are ridiculously crowded and the locals are nasty as hell. I lived there for over 10 years and became an honorary local after a while and the things I would see were crazy. Too many people, not enough space. Pro surfers scattered through the lineup along with Meth Heads and brazillians. I mean, it can be a real sh** show. Sunset Cliffs too. If its big and perfect, choose your spots wisely, cause some of the older guys on the cliffs will ruin your day really fast. Ive seen fist fights there, the spear trick, ive seen the board to board tackle, ive seen guys intentionally run a guy over and god forbid one of the locals paddles into the lineup and points at you, you may as well go home or somewhere else. That is the official "Burn that guy" call and everyone out there will literally burn you. Its a ton of fun when you are the burners, but if you are the burnee, not so much. Every wave you go for, they will drop in. If you get to close or call them out, you will either get punched or pushed off their boards. I have seen 12 years old get in on the burn sessions, and if you mess with one of those kids, they older guys will pull the "east Bound and down on you" Cut the leash, probably punch you and then launch your board at the cliffs. Then you can swim in with your tail between your legs as you watch your beautiful surf board slap up against the rocks...


    But when you see 100 guys on one reef break, go to another. there are dozens of them... Not trying to freak you out, Im am just saying that guys have been surfing those spots their whole lives and take it really seriously so just be respectful. But if you are a guy learning to shortboard, I doubt you will be out there when its 10-12 feet, offshore and firing... Im just giving you some heads up

    Long story short: Every beach break in san diego is fun. They are all great places to learn... OB does have a lot of closeouts because it sucks up more swell than other spots and gets much bigger too. It will be 3-5 feet in PB and OB will be 7 foot and draining. It gets super deep about a mile off OB and the cliffs and it delivers a lot more power...

    Central Mission beach surprisingly hold up very well in most conditions... There are usually good peaks and wave faces on them....

    And if you are a goofy footer and want to ride an automatic barrel machine, go to the south mission jetty. A complete novice can get a stand up barrel there. Its a freaking wave machine... Dont mind the nasty, meth-head locals there. They arent really locals, they are just guys from Claremont and La Mesa that have jacked up pickups and drug problems... They act hard, but they arent... Only a few of them can actually surf...

    And if you are regular footed and want the automatic barrel machine, do the OB jetty on the other side of the river mouth... It too is a perfect barrel machine... The locals there are equally as bad, but I would rather get into a pissing match with a Hippy on a single fin in OB than a methed out roid freak in South Mission.
    Last edited by zach619; Mar 31, 2014 at 03:39 PM.