Iv had a few pretty bad ones but the last bad one I had was in the fall I believe. The forecast was calling for chest high waves, and for some reason I confused the tides. So I thought it was high tide when it was low tide. Usually I bring two boards but this day I only brought the long board not expecting anything epic. I get there and it's bigger then forecasted and steep as eff.
So I paddle out and made it out very easily, was feeling good even though I was on the wrong board, I'm comfortable on the LB. I paddle for my first wave, the wind held me up in the lip, I'm trying my hardest to get the nose going down the wave, but I wasn't going anywhere. Then I air drop. When I landed I must of exhaled. Next thing I know is there was a explosion of water and I was getting rag dolled. The hold down wasn't to long but I ran out of air real quick. When I came up my vision was blurry for a second then I was fine. Scared the crap out of me. I paddled outside and sat for a good 20 minutes regaining my composure then had a great session.
One of my worst was at my home break on LI. me and a buddy of mine went out. dark gloomy cold april afternoon. about chest high with good power behind it. my friend caught a wave and Im sitting out side when I notice a huge wave coming in... Its larger than any wave that we had seen all day and Im in the impact zone for this rogue beast. I start paddling my ass off towards it and I just barely, and I mean just barely got under it... I pop out from my desperate duck dive only to see its big brother on the way in and that one is out even further.... Im paddling now and starting to get nervous and I just barely make the duck the dive.... when I see yet another monster further out!!! I can't make it so I ditch the board.... the beatings go on for 3 more waves. Im barely getting back to the surface to gulp air before I have to go under in between every wave.... then no more waves like that came in. just back to the regular waves we had had all day. My buddy told me he got washed up to the shore and couldnt even see out to where I was over the white wash coming in. lol. I was def nervous during it.
lol. the next worst beating was here on swellinfo! haha.
mine was memorable cause bad ....laniakea, the usual 4/6 ft stuff, i duckdived and got pushed down solid 20+
feet under....clutching my 7/6 so hard i palm-dented, over and over i rolled. eyes bugged open then
blackness crept in from around the edges...held on to stick and was delivered topside...shaken; scared.
Last edited by baddy trailerpark; Apr 2, 2014 at 02:19 PM.
ok my worst wipeout which im sure I said before in many other threads,nor'ida swell in November,dont remember what year,maybe 5 or 6 yrs ago.surfline did a swellstory on it but it no longer exists.anyway the waves were as big and epic as they could get in ny.maybe even 12ft sets.anyway I was surfing,blah blah,rode to the beach,did the jog back up to the jetty to get back out,start paddling backout all psyched,get over the first 3 waves,duckdived the next 2,when I thought I was on the outside a cleanup set rolls through.now I don't want to exaggerate or anything,u know when ur laying face down and a big set comes at u,like big,maybe 12-15ft,atleast 10ft,30 ft by the si standards,and I tried to paddle up it and I knew I wasn't going to make it,i ditched my board while I was in the lip,and down with the lip I went,i thought I was in deep water,but I hit the bottom so hard,and got tangled up in my leash,so when it finally let me up,i couldn't kick and I got sucked back out in a monster rip,that usually forms after a monster set,and im kicken but my legs aren't moving,i pulled the quik realese tab and pulled it off,and eventually got out of it.it was the first and only time I actualy yelled "help!!!!"but nobody helped.there were only maybe 6 other people out all scattered throughout the 2 jetties.I yelled help because I was hogtied btw,not because I was scared lol,even tho I was.but it was a true test of fitness and endurance,and I eventually paddled back in without catching a wave and I sat it out the rest of the day.this was at gilgo in ny,think that's what they call it,idk.somebody in rockaway actually died that day.it was heavy.im sure theres a few people on here that remember that swell,wasnt too long ago.and when I surfed the inlet during bill when there were solid 15-18ft sets,it wasn't even close to the heaviness of that day.
this is the only source I could find for the swell,at 42 seconds,u can see one of those clean up sets making its way in,it was doing that all day,and that's what I got blasted with.im sure most of u are like big deal that aint shyt,but im no worldclass surfer or heavy waterman.that was all the heaviness I could handle
- Caught inside at the boneyard at Calafia, Mexico on a TOH day. 12ft at like 22second or something crazy like that. No way outta there. Thought I was gonna die that day. Made it back out in one piece and didn't take off on another wave for like an hour. Just kept backing off. Got another one, got confident and was fine after that.
- La Fonda, Mex (yeah, sounds lame) but it was a solid 10-12 foot day. Looked perfect and WAAAAAY smaller from the cliff and the walk down. Broke a leash that day. Broke a board. I was the only guy out after the guy in front of me snapped a board and ended up below the campgrounds like 300 yards north... When my board broke, the current almost took me all the way around the point. It was sucking me out bad. I had to just let go and float for a while cause the ocean was just pulling me. Finally hit a non-rip and swam again.. Made it to shore. My wife was crying, screaming at me. Thought I was dead cause she saw the snapped board on the beach and didnt see me for about 20 minutes.
- A few really sketchy times on Sunset Cliffs. I posted the story in another thread a few days ago. Wont relive the whole thing, but I broke a few toes and saw people just get mowed down... A mile out at sea, 15-20 second hold downs... At least that was on US soil where the coast guard choppers and lifeguard boats had our backs. They would have eventually found me floating out there. Hopefully still alive =)
I could go on and on. But those were the few times where I was literally scared for my life. Like, sitting out in the ocean thinking, WTF am I doing here right now. At this moment, on this day, at this spot on this swell in a third world country... Is this how its gonna end? I guess thats just human instinct kicking in a reminded you that you are an idiot for doing what you do.