the rocks was closed due to road work so i went to north wildwood and found disorganized head high waves on the sandbar and waimea-like chest high shorebreak that was almost impossible to get through. stayed there for a half hour and caught 1 wave.
then i went to stockton ave in the crest and found much cleaner and more managable waves that had some sick barrels. it really looked good from the beach but i realized that the drift was really bad and i had to paddle back 2 blocks every 20 minutes. stayed for 2 hours and caught 4 waves. on wednesday i went to 6th st in north wildwood at high tide and it was only about waist high but really fun. waves were breaking in like knee deep water so it was really steep and hollow. you drop right into the barrel. after the tide changed the waves dropped off alot and i went in after 2 hours
Life is full of disappointments. School and an edjucation are no guarantee you'll make it, just a guarantee you'll miss waves. Find some rich chick and sponge off her parents and shred err day, all day brah!
LBCrew - were your late takeoffs because you had to fight to get in those waves and more paddles (and time) were needed? I felt the same yesterday with strong offshores holding the curtain up too long although I scored overall. Doesn't mean I didn't make the drops successfully which I did almost every one, but time was needed to stabilize board on the late drop when I otherwise could've been searching for speed by then.
Yesterday was the first day in 5 months that I rode a groveler or anything close to a HP and of the 5-10 length. My biggest observation of the day was that the shorter and thinner the board, the earlier I prefer to get a takeoff. Is that the correct objective to have, and why would it be if so? Thanks breh.
that's exactly what I experienced up here in ME. Also, would average chest high, then all the sudden these massive head high/overhead sets would show up and would have to paddle out to not get trashed and by the time I'd get out I'd be way on the shoulder to go right (when I prefer to go left) and i'd blow the wave/set. it was very hard to get lined up right, but when i did, it was fantastic. just wish i'd had more, more consistent sets, and as you said, less off-shore so as to catch up better with the "little" waves between the monsters...
If I have time and check surf and its ride able but winds are supposed to go more offshore later, I go in immediately. I swear 9 out of 10 offshore forecasts for late in the day turn onshore in NJ. So if it looks fun, and im able, I just go, don't wait. If winds get better I stay till my shoulders are rubber. 4-8-14 I had a few good waves. But after an hour my leash ripped the tether string after punching through the back and my board ended up on the only rocks in the entire beach town I went out in. Board got thrashed. Ended my day.
Ain't that the worst? I almost never go to the beach without both my small wave board and good wave board, but on Saturday my perpetual optimism waned and I said screw it, and just threw the bottom feeder in the car. Unexpected steep, punchy, barreling shoulder high surf with overhead sets, I was thinking stomach high and soft. For the most part, I was able to get the nose pointed a bit down the line mid-face on the drop in, but I pearled at the bottom of the waves and got crunched quite a bit. Lesson learned, pessimism punished.
This was definitely the experience I had in Newport! I thought it would go nice with the wind turning NW, but it was head high wicked closeouts. Got worked over and over!