que sopresa the swell hung around and let me have another go at it around noon sunday…once again a
good sesh w/ minimal crowd and plenty of clean 2footers mostly lefts. boy does it feel good to be out
of my 5/4 wetsuit...
SI's report for today (for Rincon, PR) was pretty darn accurate, compared to SL's...3-5' occasionally, a 6 footer. Not the 8-9' predicted for our local bigger wave spot--it wasn't even breaking..somewhat confused swell, 2 directions, closeouts frequently..
just nice to get something this late in the season..gonna be flat for a long time soon
Saturday started out slow but became chest-head and fun, then got blown out by onshore wind around 3ish.
Sunday was apparently clean early (I wouldn't know because I'm a kook and drank too much Sat. Night). When I finally got out (4:30), it was side shore but fun chest-head lefts were coming in anyway.
Friggin slutty bartenders were giving me straight Captain with 1 drop of ginger. I hate missing waves because of a hangover (so lame). Once every couple years I blow it with over consumption .
no it doesn't. its FICKLE and i bet thats (at least part of) your complaint. but the osv pass and pull up
to your own personal break cause the beach is 20 miles long (10 drivable).[/QUOTE]
Ok..in fall, winter and spring...but you ain't gonna be driving 10 miles in summer. You will be lucky if a mile will be open...and that could last into early hurricane season...piper plovers! Go to Delaware and surf!