I was there that day. Those locals were all hot under collar, kinda how I get after eating too many red hot chilli peppers.Originally Posted by ChavezYChavez
I'm a total nightmare in the water. One time, this lawyer-looking guy dropped in on me and dinged my board good. I paddled over to him and punched him in the face, then I took at my knife and cut his leash and told him to go back to the valley. Then me and my buds caught up to him at the shower and were giving him a good beating until the local surf guru showed up and kicked all our a$$es.
I remember that
What I'm referring to is: Zero crowds in 45 degree water, paddle into the almost empty lineup, say hi to 2 young shredder buds, and nobody acknowledges the kind and simple greeting.
My two cents.
I say hi to everyone in the summer, not in the winter.
In the winter everyone has hoods on and I feel like I am bothering people when they need to lift the side of their hood just to hear this idiot say hi to them.
Also depends on the vibe when I paddle out.
The best example of this is when a "pro" surfer paddles out around here. There are so many different vibes they can take. Gna name drop Tom Petriken who takes the time to remember peoples names and is respectful and humble in the lineup even though they rip the balls out of every wave. They start conversation and are genuinely looking to enjoy some waves with some people. Keeps that mellow friendly vibe.
And then..................... another way to play it is to be the cocky aggro local pro who in reality noone knows or cares about outside of your local spot anyway who paddles out on people who have been out for a few hours and burns EVERYONE nomatter their skill level or localness of that break. No names because that would be proper **** talking but the other day there was a great session going down me n some buddies and then a "local pro" comes out and burns literally everyone and had the attitude "**** all of you i have a sticker you are dirt im shooting for my instagram clip!" Ruined the vibe of the session and someone could have been seriously hurt with a nice fin to the head when ur in the barrel and the guy stuffs my buddy and a bunch of other guys out there. Saw him burn a kid twice in 5 minutes doesnt hesitate at all. Literally never been so vibed out and buzzkilled and infuriated when i see a guy airdrop on to a guy who was riding the wave already for a few seconds. its one thing to say na my wave before the takeoff but to airdrop the quad thru someones back is completely out of line. I will not support those guys and their brands or anything about them they are doing negative advertizing to the people that see them in the lineup regularly in person and dont just know of them from a magazine picture. yea you are sick and i admire your surfing skills but you are an asshole and alot of people secretly hate you and plot against you but suck your **** because you have a sticker. Its all fun and games untill one of those pricks seriously injures someone.
in the end of the day who will the people like better and support, the guy who has a few photos but burns everyone to the point of hurting people or the respectful humble ripper who is friendly to everyone and picks off the best waves anyway because of their superior wave skills. Glad I rarely frequent the fancy standout spots around here because even though the waves are really good sometimes you often leave pissed off and unsatisfied. 2 post tuesday on swellinfo ttyl
I surf these spots because its where I live. I wish people would get an imagination, look around and spread the heck out. It's not that there are no other breaks around, its just that the stretch of beach near my house has the cameras. Also I think surfers like to flock up like sheep for some reason.
I could go to the next town north on the same day or the beaches at the other end of my town and its just as good and nobody is out. But why should I have to. Its bizarre.
I am telling you, I have never met a crew of low lives quite like that. It was d-baggery. I mean, while that was going on, the other guy is over hitting on my buddies girlfriend. It was nuts... From that day forward, I had a personal competition with those guys every time were were out. As much as I hate the one guy, he does show up in surfer mag spreads about once a year. Bastard.