The quote: "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." I believe is from Phil Edwards.
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Thread: skill vs stoke
May 12, 2014, 10:39 AM #21
May 12, 2014, 12:39 PM #22
I think the more skill set you have, you have a chance of leaving the water not as stoked due to conditions or your own performance...I have left the water aggravated and po'ed...winds switch on shore or I just plain sucked that day. Beginners really have no idea (just happy to be out there) and seem to always be stoked, especially as they progress. I remember talking to a kid new to surfing one day, who was pumped about his day of surfing. I was like "you went out today???" The surf was slop and knee high at best...he was completely stoked.
Last edited by mrcoop; May 12, 2014 at 12:45 PM.
May 12, 2014, 05:20 PM #23
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Punching Latex Dummys in Barns
Look who we have here zagayfer and ms13. Damn one rich boy in cali and one rich boy in Hawaii team up. They'll probably throw down on a Roy Stuart. I know you say you charge Hawaii but I bet you don't paddle out on a 5 foot day out of fear. I bet your (that guy) hey man it's not big enough has to atleast do triple over head. Dumbpot smoking, vw bus driving, ice heads. Btw I have no feelings besides hate. Come to cape romaine and surf with me if you dare.
May 12, 2014, 05:38 PM #24
rich boy, lol I work for a living homes
blasters you type funnier sh!t than that, I am offended thats all you got
your sister still sore?
May 12, 2014, 06:01 PM #25
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
I definitely find it much harder to be stoked. Everyone else summed it up. It's way more frustrating now to me than it once was, after a session where it looked better than it was. Or I show up with my SB and LB and have to go with the LB... It urkes me now, when it once didn't....
But I think surfing is a direct extension of your own life... When you work more, have less time, more responsibilities, your eggs end up going in one big basket sometimes, and when that one or two times per weeks that you have an opportunity to go out, don't pan out... The stoke meter takes a huge hit...
Yes, it takes a lot more to get me stoked, but with that being said, I felt the need to post a whole thread last week because I caught a barrel on a 2-3 foot wave. It obviously wasn't my best barrel, or even close, but sometimes, when it's been so small, and something great happens, the stoke meter just sky rockets... I was giggling like a little kid after that one... I got out of the water completely content just thinking, thanks mother ocean, you and I have always been such good friends. You could sense my angst and my heavy heart, and you threw me a bone. You said, f-it, ive been pitching ankle high slappers all day, this poor guys has been putting up with it for month. He is the only guy out, I am just going to give him a perfect, 3 foot sheet glass wave with a nice little hollow pit to slide into, and then, I will dissapear again....
Thank you mother ocean, your little sick sense of humor boosted my stoke up pretty high. If something like that happened to me 5 years ago, I would have thought nothing of it, probably forgotten about the fun little barrel by the time I made it back out to the lineup, thirsty for more, while basically disregarding the past... More More More....
I think once you are established as a decent surfer it just takes knowing the conditions and what to expect from them and you can still be just as stoked as that beginner hittin whitewater. Like Zach was saying how stoked he was on his lil barrel, conditions prob didnt lend themselves well to gettin anything of the sort so he was stoked on that lil bit of glory. Its all relative.
If i can side track a bit i personally hold STYLE above skill. I hate it when you see a dude stink buggin, hittin turns and what not, so he thinks hes a shredder but looks like a monkey f#*kin a football the whole time. Hone that flow, then work on other stuff.
May 12, 2014, 07:06 PM #27
lol yea mike, I say, 'that guy surfs like old people f@ck'
May 12, 2014, 07:38 PM #28Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
Yeah at first I was stoked grinning from ear to ear giggling like the first time I touched my girlfriend's boobs in Jr. High any time I managed to drop down a wave-face... then I only got stoked when I managed to get a shoulder or make a bottom turn.. now I need to get some real speed going on the shoulder or catch a really long ride / big wave before I get anywhere near that stoke level.
May 12, 2014, 07:47 PM #29
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
I really don't see too much correlation between the two. The can exist together or separately so there really isn't and "vs" about it IMO.
Nevertheless, surfing stokeless, gutless waves is like batting practice to me. A good fun opportunity to stay loose and relatively sharp. When you finally do get some stoke inducing waves you'll be ready for them.
(This advice is for east coast specifically, I've never had the opportunity to continually surf quality waves and lose the stoke)
May 12, 2014, 09:54 PM #30