Surfing = Heroin. No, I don't think so at all. When i first started surfing i was riding white water and thats about it. Now I travel the world for barrels which is a lot more fun than whitewater. You need to stop surfing.
I think you missed the point of the analogy. barrels are waaaay more intense (and harder to come by) than whitewater, so you need more pizazz to get the same stoke....just like an addict needs more sweet lady H to get the same buzz as his/her experience increases.
like that first 6 pack you had got you pretty drunk, now that 6er is just a warm up
my first tube was short and AWESOME.... I am much less impressed with same tube-ride now, I need a deep mental pit to go off like I did on my first tube ride
if you still dont understand YOU need to quit surfing
Last edited by MakeItStop; May 12, 2014 at 09:19 AM.
I think the more skill set you have, you have a chance of leaving the water not as stoked due to conditions or your own performance...I have left the water aggravated and po'ed...winds switch on shore or I just plain sucked that day. Beginners really have no idea (just happy to be out there) and seem to always be stoked, especially as they progress. I remember talking to a kid new to surfing one day, who was pumped about his day of surfing. I was like "you went out today???" The surf was slop and knee high at best...he was completely stoked.
Look who we have here zagayfer and ms13. Damn one rich boy in cali and one rich boy in Hawaii team up. They'll probably throw down on a Roy Stuart. I know you say you charge Hawaii but I bet you don't paddle out on a 5 foot day out of fear. I bet your (that guy) hey man it's not big enough has to atleast do triple over head. Dumbpot smoking, vw bus driving, ice heads. Btw I have no feelings besides hate. Come to cape romaine and surf with me if you dare.
I definitely find it much harder to be stoked. Everyone else summed it up. It's way more frustrating now to me than it once was, after a session where it looked better than it was. Or I show up with my SB and LB and have to go with the LB... It urkes me now, when it once didn't....
But I think surfing is a direct extension of your own life... When you work more, have less time, more responsibilities, your eggs end up going in one big basket sometimes, and when that one or two times per weeks that you have an opportunity to go out, don't pan out... The stoke meter takes a huge hit...
Yes, it takes a lot more to get me stoked, but with that being said, I felt the need to post a whole thread last week because I caught a barrel on a 2-3 foot wave. It obviously wasn't my best barrel, or even close, but sometimes, when it's been so small, and something great happens, the stoke meter just sky rockets... I was giggling like a little kid after that one... I got out of the water completely content just thinking, thanks mother ocean, you and I have always been such good friends. You could sense my angst and my heavy heart, and you threw me a bone. You said, f-it, ive been pitching ankle high slappers all day, this poor guys has been putting up with it for month. He is the only guy out, I am just going to give him a perfect, 3 foot sheet glass wave with a nice little hollow pit to slide into, and then, I will dissapear again....
Thank you mother ocean, your little sick sense of humor boosted my stoke up pretty high. If something like that happened to me 5 years ago, I would have thought nothing of it, probably forgotten about the fun little barrel by the time I made it back out to the lineup, thirsty for more, while basically disregarding the past... More More More....
I think once you are established as a decent surfer it just takes knowing the conditions and what to expect from them and you can still be just as stoked as that beginner hittin whitewater. Like Zach was saying how stoked he was on his lil barrel, conditions prob didnt lend themselves well to gettin anything of the sort so he was stoked on that lil bit of glory. Its all relative.
If i can side track a bit i personally hold STYLE above skill. I hate it when you see a dude stink buggin, hittin turns and what not, so he thinks hes a shredder but looks like a monkey f#*kin a football the whole time. Hone that flow, then work on other stuff.
Yeah at first I was stoked grinning from ear to ear giggling like the first time I touched my girlfriend's boobs in Jr. High any time I managed to drop down a wave-face... then I only got stoked when I managed to get a shoulder or make a bottom turn.. now I need to get some real speed going on the shoulder or catch a really long ride / big wave before I get anywhere near that stoke level.