Sometimes right after I finish ridding a wave, while i'm paddling back out to the lineup, i realize that I can't remember what just happened on that last wave.
It's hard for me to describe. It is almost as if I black out as soon as i start paddling for a wave, and then next thing I know, i'm paddling back out into the lineup.
Obviously, the spectacular waves I remember vividly, even years after. But often on mediocre days I experience this extremely short term memory loss while surfing. Although, after thinking about it for a few seconds, I am able to recollect what happened, and i realize that wave i just surfed consisted of no more than a quick drop or blown top turn.
I am wondering if anyone else experiences this. I am wondering if while we surf, we become so concentrated in that exact moment that we don't even realize or think about the actual motions we are going through. I know I am not the first to propose this type idea, I am just wondering, can anyone else can relate to this? If not, maybe its time for me to start cutting back on the burning.
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Thread: Forgetting your waves
May 20, 2014, 02:55 AM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Long Island
Forgetting your waves
May 20, 2014, 03:01 AM #2
No, not really, you sure your alright?
May 20, 2014, 03:01 AM #3
Yep, lay off thw wacky weed and you will remember more. Honestly thought I know what you mean, I do the same thing with guitar. My band will play a song then next thing I know it's 2 songs later and I suggest the one we played 10 minuets before. Sometimes I think you get zoned and "auto pilot" takes over.
May 20, 2014, 03:02 AM #4
This happens to me as well. Sometimes when it's crowded and I know that I was dodging people I can't remember actually seeing the people while it's happening. Weird. I know I burn too much
May 20, 2014, 03:02 AM #5
Sounds like a normal Saturday to me. Hash cookies will do that to ya.
May 20, 2014, 03:24 AM #6
My theory, as it were, has been that I get slightly concussed in the ocean from all the heavy water shots to the noggin. People get concussions from heading soccer balls, for example, and yet the ocean hits with a lot more force, and hits the brain a lot more often, than a friggin soccer ball.
May 20, 2014, 03:25 AM #7
Bro right on with this tread. Great topic. I think about it all the time, what you're describing. I'm a bit brain dead from a long, enduring yet satisfying day that started with failed DP recon runs, then epic noon sesh on glassy medium period, then arduous but necessary work day that just ended.
I usually have a photographic memory of my rides. My best ever one and all the breakthrough rides are still so fresh in my mind now despite all the clutter of other things in it. I feel we recollect and encode experiences in our brain best for good when we visually replay them in our heads right after experiencing them then several times in the days and months ahead.
Think of an experience as a peanut M&M. The original event is the peanut and every time you've ever replayed the event (and therefore relived it if it was emotional in any way) is a layer of chocolate around the peanut. With our more intensely emotional experiences (best rides ever, worst thrashings, brushes with death), each next time we replay it in our heads evokes an even more emotional and intense response within us - the peanut M&M is cumulatively growing bigger and thicker.
With all the sessions we get and all the rides in those sessions, the mental filing cabinet gets cluttered. You may not have encoded certain rides or sessions very well if you don't revisit them and they can be bumped from the memory bank forever. Our capacity for memory is only so much and varies from person to person. The reason emotional experience leave the strongest and most lasting impressions on our psyche is so we can either seek to recreate it (if positive) or avoid (if negative) in the future.
On levels of stoke and progression, maintaining the memory bank is key. I was thinking about this again just today too bro, you were reading my mind! Especially with the notion that we may have been so focused on a given ride that we fail to realize it may have just been a steep drop or failed turn. I believe we have to increase our awareness during the original event to absorb more sensory data of the experience and really was planning on asking the higher skilled bros if they make a point to maintain high awareness during the ride.
Like how I want to get in the high line of the wave more often and still have managed to do it at times in the past and honestly way early in my progression on occasion. My thought today was that as soon as I get to feet and have angled in, I next must immediately look down the line (i.e. look where you want to go) before the drop itself continues and actually happens because your window to get in that high line is slim.
If my hypothesis is correct then let me know braddahs. This is why I love this forum - because you're a resource for me not only to share stoke with but also benefit and progress from. My only greater hope is that I can likewise contribute to you cats in any way possible on the relevant topics I do have knowledge in.
Thanks for a great tread bro. Pretty dope for one of your initial posts on SI!
Last edited by EmassSpicoli; May 20, 2014 at 03:28 AM.
May 20, 2014, 03:58 AM #8
I forget short and mediocre waves frequently, but waves that are notable for any reason, I tend to remember.
When falling asleep after a good sesh, I don't find myself thinking about any specific waves, but instead relapse into wave analysis mode, seeing set after set coming ... waking up again and again in bed, wishing there was better surf tomorrow. This is how I know I had a good day of surfing.
As far as 'high in the line' goes, I've managed it by getting into waves earlier, popping up immediately, and (as you said) looking down the line while getting to my feet. Look right, look left, pop up. Usually when I look at my board I delay setting my rail, which on forgiving days is fine, but on on days like this past Saturday, it results in notable beatings.
I'm sure there's a 'high on the line' thread somewhere in the archives- or maybe the elders could weigh in on it. But it's a frequent goal for me in comfortable conditions. Feels great when you set it high, cruise, drop in on the wave, and set it high again.
May 20, 2014, 11:04 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Atlantic City
i do this too and find that the only way to completely remember the wave is to replay it in your mind as
soon as you are done - kind of forced remembrance..
May 20, 2014, 11:41 AM #10
i have experienced the exact thing you describe. i really only get it on days when im getting tons of waves. after a stoke inducing wave or two i stop commiting the mediocre waves to memory. i use it as an indicator that im having a fun session. i actually love this phenomenon because to me more waves forgotten equals more memorable rides!! does that make sense? ...im not sure, but the burn sure does
awesome topic btw