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  1. #11
    I had that happen a few times last summer, we referred to it as being in a "surf coma"

  2. Quote Originally Posted by kickmee6 View Post
    Sometimes right after I finish ridding a wave, while i'm paddling back out to the lineup, i realize that I can't remember what just happened on that last wave.

    It's hard for me to describe. It is almost as if I black out as soon as i start paddling for a wave, and then next thing I know, i'm paddling back out into the lineup.

    Obviously, the spectacular waves I remember vividly, even years after. But often on mediocre days I experience this extremely short term memory loss while surfing. Although, after thinking about it for a few seconds, I am able to recollect what happened, and i realize that wave i just surfed consisted of no more than a quick drop or blown top turn.

    I am wondering if anyone else experiences this. I am wondering if while we surf, we become so concentrated in that exact moment that we don't even realize or think about the actual motions we are going through. I know I am not the first to propose this type idea, I am just wondering, can anyone else can relate to this? If not, maybe its time for me to start cutting back on the burning.
    and that's why you're supposed to go out an purchase a GoPro

  3. #13
    everyone either forgets their waves or remembers a better ride than it actually was...

  4. #14
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    Well I'm glad I am not alone in this. I was worried this might be a warning sign of the short term memory loss often attributed to copious marijuana consumption...

    Seriously though its crazy that so many people know what I am talking about!!! Rcarter mentioned the "auto pilot" thing, and that level of concentration is incredible. Personally, I feel like I can simplify this phenomenon to "being in the zone." (Even though I hate that expression, its mad corny.)

    I heard a story about a golfer who hit an incredible shot while a car horn rang out in the background during his back swing. After the shot someone asked the golfer how he remained focused with the horn in the background, and the golfer responded "what horn?" When I heard that story, I knew what the golfer was talking about because of surfing.


    But now im wondering...is this the same thing as muscle memory? or are we really reaching high levels of mental concentration? like when we first learn to surf, paddling is difficult, standing is a daunting task. Then after time, these things become second nature like breathing, we don't even realize we are doing it. I have seen this same type of progression with going down the line, pumping and turns. Eventually, I hope finding the barrel becomes second nature, and babes on the beach flock to me like seagulls to discarded sandwich crust.

    I suppose then that muscle memory is a necessary ingredient for us to reach these high levels of concentration that cause us to forget our waves. But is this short term memory loss entirely a result of muscle memory?

    Anyway, looks like there might be some waves today too, I think i'll smoke a J and see if i can forget a few of these small little things...
    Last edited by kickmee6; May 20, 2014 at 03:11 PM.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kickmee6 View Post
    Well I'm glad I am not alone in this. I was worried this might be a warning sign of the short term memory loss often attributed to copious marijuana consumption...
    .
    Ho brah, no worries on that. I'm a copious consumer and my memory is uncannily sharp.

    As far as remembering waves, the best ones are obviously the easiest to remember, but all day after a sesh I will get like still image memories/thoughts of sections I didn't recall at first.

  6. #16
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    Happens to me all the time... I call it a "Zen Moment." It's when you're completely absorbed, and living in the present, which transcends the past and future. A state of unthinking purity of existence, when your body, mind, and world around you become one infinite entity.

    Feel good about it... because it means you're enlightened. Not everybody can get there.

  7. #17
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    Well said LBCrew.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kickmee6 View Post
    Sometimes right after I finish ridding a wave, while i'm paddling back out to the lineup, i realize that I can't remember what just happened on that last wave.

    It's hard for me to describe. It is almost as if I black out as soon as i start paddling for a wave, and then next thing I know, i'm paddling back out into the lineup.

    Obviously, the spectacular waves I remember vividly, even years after. But often on mediocre days I experience this extremely short term memory loss while surfing. Although, after thinking about it for a few seconds, I am able to recollect what happened, and i realize that wave i just surfed consisted of no more than a quick drop or blown top turn.

    I am wondering if anyone else experiences this. I am wondering if while we surf, we become so concentrated in that exact moment that we don't even realize or think about the actual motions we are going through. I know I am not the first to propose this type idea, I am just wondering, can anyone else can relate to this? If not, maybe its time for me to start cutting back on the burning.
    Used to happen to me ALL THE TIME in CA. I think a lot of it has to do with my ADHD personality and my "never enough" mentality regarding surfing. But I have had some of the sickest waves in my life, and by the time I am back at the lineup, I sit there like, "dude, savor the fact that you just got spit out of a sick barrel". Its like, if you don't sit there and decompress a little after the wave, it just blends into nothing... Cause as soon as the wave is over, my mind goes into instinct mode and everything I am doing is natural muscle memory. Pop over the back, scrape back out as quick as possible avoiding set waves and get back into position.

    But yeah brother, it does happen. It's because when you are actually surfing, your mind switches into reaction and muscle memory mode. As you are doing turns and whatever, your mind is already racing ahead and looking forward at the next section to analyze what is about to happen. And when your mind and body are so in tune like that, sometimes it doesn't switch off right away....

    It's like this.... And its scary because this is symptoms of stroke victims...

    But here is what it's like: If you take the same commute to work EVERY DAY, or you have lived in the same house for 10 years, sometimes when you are driving home at night, you can "Zone Out". Where your mind is wondering. Maybe you are listening to a good song. Maybe you are daydreaming about the surf the next day or whatever, thinking of what you have to do at work the next day.... All of the sudden, you realize that you dont really remember the last 5 minutes of driving. You stopped at the stop lights. You made the correct turns, but the whole time, you mind is wondering. You do what you are supposed to do. You are driving safely, but your mind was elsewhere and sometimes you snap out of it, like damn... I was totalled zoning out there, but your mind and body do exactly what they are supposed to...

    A similar effect happens to me surfing sometimes... Its like you really are transformed into a strange Zen like state, where your mind is in survival and react mode and just continues on like a Juggernaut because its trained and tuned to do so. It knows you are supposed to stop worrying about watch just happened and continue to look forward into the immediate future, like navigating the set waves, taking big breathes before a duck dive....

    It's strange how the human mind works with regards to surfing. Another strange anomaly that happens to me, is on my way to surf, my mind starts kicking into body commuicating and I start having flem build up. Like it's my bodys way of telling me that it knows that I am going surfing and it wants me to Hydrate. So, even though I am not conciously thinking of the surfing, my body knows based on the routine that I am in, that it is about to get into the ocean, so it naturally goes into survival and instict mode, triggering a response that I have to drink water. I can drink a whole gatorade on the way, but still on the walk up the beach I find myself spitting and stuff because my body is in preparation mode....

    Anyway, yeah dude. Just snap out of it and remember to enjoy it. Its a shame when you get a long, sick wave and do 10 turns, but the only think you remember was the very end of it... strange that it happens, but it is common for sure.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    Happens to me all the time... I call it a "Zen Moment." It's when you're completely absorbed, and living in the present, which transcends the past and future. A state of unthinking purity of existence, when your body, mind, and world around you become one infinite entity.

    Feel good about it... because it means you're enlightened. Not everybody can get there.
    Yup... see, it took me like 16,000 words to say the exact same thing. You are quite the wordsmith my friend.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kickmee6 View Post

    But now im wondering...is this the same thing as muscle memory? or are we really reaching high levels of mental concentration? like when we first learn to surf, paddling is difficult, standing is a daunting task. Then after time, these things become second nature like breathing, we don't even realize we are doing it. I have seen this same type of progression with going down the line, pumping and turns. Eventually, I hope finding the barrel becomes second nature, and babes on the beach flock to me like seagulls to discarded sandwich crust.
    It's a little of both. But I would say 75% of it is muscle memory and 25% of it is the Zen and mental stuff....

    Here is another question for all surfers... This is another way I started looking at strange mental stuff in surfing... When I was teaching a friend to surf last summer, I was out in the water trying to talk him through it. He was just watching what I did and stuff. And he asked me, so "When you pop up, where exactly do you put your hands? Which leg goes up first. Does your knee ever touch the board? etc..." and for the first time, when trying to talk about surfing, I was stumped. I sat there, trying to remember exactly where I put my hands. Do they wrap around each rail? Do I keep my palms flat on the top of the board? Since I am goofy, I would assume that I swing my right leg up first...." But I was stumped. Something I have done tens of thousands of times, I just couldn't exactly put into words how I do it. It has just become something that I do so often and so naturally, that every time I do it, it goes into consciousness and then if goes right back out.

    There are so many little things like that in surfing that are crazy, that if someone was trying to get really technical about so many things that we do while we are out here, unless you watch video review of yourself, things goes so fast out there that is slips in and out of your own consciousness and memory.

    Popping up on a wave becomes so second nature, that your mind doesn't even process it anymore. Its like breathing. You can't explain exactly what your lungs are doing, you just know they suck air in and out. Your mind never processes the details.

    Crazy zen stuff bro.