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  1. #1

  2. #2
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    so true imho

  3. #3
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    I'm ok with #1.

    Saw two dudes ripping on single fins Sunday. Surfing them the way they should be surfed, to the point that I knew they were riding single fins when I first saw them 50 yds down the lineup. Bet ya they surf better than the author of the article.

  4. #4
    yea the single fin thing was my biggest issue
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    I'm ok with #1.

    Saw two dudes ripping on single fins Sunday. Surfing them the way they should be surfed, to the point that I knew they were riding single fins when I first saw them 50 yds down the lineup. Bet ya they surf better than the author of the article.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    in the grace of the most holy FSM
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    author's got a seriously myopic view of what surfing "should" be...i can see some of the "cultural" stuff, but why ***** about ANYTHING design related? different strokes for different folks, right? some like the typical thruster hpsb, some like alaias, some like heavily glassed single fin longboards, etc...i mean, wayne lynch absolutely kills it on his finless creations.

  6. #6
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    Sep 2010
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    Long Buried Island
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    #8 is by far the best rule.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2009
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    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
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    Haha, great post. Dude NAILED it. And I am not going to offend anyone on here, as in recent weeks, I have learned that there are a lot of single fin enthusiasts. But this article reminds me of SOOOO many people that I would encounter on the west coast. As we all know, the "FISH" as we know it was originally developed and made popular in the San Diego, many, many moons ago. At the time, it was ground breaking, but back in 2005ish, when all the little hipster local kiddies were reviving this, getting these huge swallow tails, with the big keels and surfing them... Sure, some of these guys were VERY talented, but I have seen them on HPSBs and then to see them on these old "Retro" boards made me want to vomit. It just destroyed their real style and ability and it was mostly, to me, to look like "that guy"... The guy who doesn't want to be mainstream. I don't want to be in all the mags. I don't want to compete, "I just want to be me"... And so many other shapers and surfers agreed with me. Its like sure, on a knee high, crap day on a reef, sure, break out some weird board, but when it's firing, don't kid yourself and paddle out on technology that went obsolete like 30 years ago.

    I have seen guys with SICK style on single find longboards, but for the guys breaking out those weird, "Roy Board", mid sized 7-8 foot teardrop single fins because they saw Rob Machado do it in shelter are just contributing to ugly surfing... There is nothing wrong with reliving the past, or reminiscing, but man, this guy nailed it. Riding Crap wave vehicles, just masks the fact that your surfing probably leaves a lot to be desired and your style is garbage on a real, modern surfboard....

    I'm all for trying new things in the water, but don't make it a way of life. I mean, unless you have an abacus on your desk and you write letters to people to communicate, don't be that guy....

    Great read though... filled with hate, but so much truth.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    I have seen guys with SICK style on single find longboards, but for the guys breaking out those weird, "Roy Board", mid sized 7-8 foot teardrop single fins because they saw Rob Machado do it in shelter are just contributing to ugly surfing...
    see, i found that riding a mid-6ft single fin really smoothed my style out when i got back on a more conventional craft...& i think most surfers who ride a hpsb could really benefit from smoothing out their "style".

  9. #9
    i agree i did the same thing...this guy and zach don't agree
    Quote Originally Posted by njsurfer42 View Post
    see, i found that riding a mid-6ft single fin really smoothed my style out when i got back on a more conventional craft...& i think most surfers who ride a hpsb could really benefit from smoothing out their "style".

  10. #10
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    Jan 2009
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    Like I said, it's just my opinion. I'm not saying that its like that for everyone. I will give my generic disclaimer: Whatever you enjoy riding....

    I've just seen too many, incredibly talented surfers turn into pumpkins on these old throw back designs. If you are into those boards, and ride them regularly and tune in the style, cool, but even the best of surfers always end up doing that, hands in the air, balancing act like they are about to tip over everytime they try and make any kind of turn... Sure, they can lock into a line and make it look smooth, but damn, watching a guy on a beautiful, huge open shoulder on Sunset Cliffs have to take this HUUUUUGE arc, grabbing rail and finishing the roundhouse, only to not have enough time to turn back into the wave and finish the figure eight. TO me, its just wasting part of the wave... To me, a lot of surfing is utilizing every part of the wave and making the most of it, through turning and reacting... Those boards aren't built to turn or react. period.

    I mean, I can see it being cool at pipeline on a HUGE day, but if you have any kind of turning to do, its just silly to me. There are just better ways to do things, thats just my opinion....

    Im not saying that you have to conform, but I think its hypocrisy when a lot of guys say "Im not going to conform to the modern design theories" yet they are part of a HUGE group of anti people that are in a similar movement on the other side of the tracks...