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  1. Lol, I'm back stateside, and there are PLENTY of surfers here.

    Paddled out at *e yesterday, and I was the second guy out by virtue of sprinting pretty much straight from PCH to the water. Caught a couple of decent ones early before the crowd bumped up to around 15. Man, water here is COLD, especially when you're dawn patrolling in nothing but shorts and a long-sleeved rashy. *e was doing its usual Chest-Hi thing with a warbly left-hander peeling off the point. Nice slow workable shoulder finishing off with a sometimes-barrel before bodywhomping shorey. Not much of a booger wave, but real pretty and relaxing for a morning sesh.

    I got away from the crowd for a little bit, paddling way the heck out to "third" peak and picking off a bomb set. Pretty HH+ drop into a blue closing-out wall. Nice drop, then nothing. Not really worth the wait for the big sets to swing wide. Fun sesh even if it was a little crowded. Stoked because next week is going to be all non-stop barrelfests with maybe 2-3 guys out.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Atlantic City
    Posts
    1,873
    Quote Originally Posted by CJsurf View Post
    I spent a month on Eleuthera in the Bahamas back in 1992. Lonely and sharky feeling place to surf. Haven't been back......wonder if it still has the same quiet country vibe.
    one time i was surfing one of the out islands and a plane full of female marine biology students from
    lynchburg college flew in. i was the only male around. true story.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by baddy trailerpark View Post
    one time i was surfing one of the out islands and a plane full of female marine biology students from
    lynchburg college flew in. i was the only male around. true story.
    Just like Clemmy's Jerz girl story, this needs an ending.