Lol, I'm back stateside, and there are PLENTY of surfers here.
Paddled out at *e yesterday, and I was the second guy out by virtue of sprinting pretty much straight from PCH to the water. Caught a couple of decent ones early before the crowd bumped up to around 15. Man, water here is COLD, especially when you're dawn patrolling in nothing but shorts and a long-sleeved rashy. *e was doing its usual Chest-Hi thing with a warbly left-hander peeling off the point. Nice slow workable shoulder finishing off with a sometimes-barrel before bodywhomping shorey. Not much of a booger wave, but real pretty and relaxing for a morning sesh.
I got away from the crowd for a little bit, paddling way the heck out to "third" peak and picking off a bomb set. Pretty HH+ drop into a blue closing-out wall. Nice drop, then nothing. Not really worth the wait for the big sets to swing wide. Fun sesh even if it was a little crowded. Stoked because next week is going to be all non-stop barrelfests with maybe 2-3 guys out.