Lol, I'm back stateside, and there are PLENTY of surfers here.
Paddled out at *e yesterday, and I was the second guy out by virtue of sprinting pretty much straight from PCH to the water. Caught a couple of decent ones early before the crowd bumped up to around 15. Man, water here is COLD, especially when you're dawn patrolling in nothing but shorts and a long-sleeved rashy. *e was doing its usual Chest-Hi thing with a warbly left-hander peeling off the point. Nice slow workable shoulder finishing off with a sometimes-barrel before bodywhomping shorey. Not much of a booger wave, but real pretty and relaxing for a morning sesh.
I got away from the crowd for a little bit, paddling way the heck out to "third" peak and picking off a bomb set. Pretty HH+ drop into a blue closing-out wall. Nice drop, then nothing. Not really worth the wait for the big sets to swing wide. Fun sesh even if it was a little crowded. Stoked because next week is going to be all non-stop barrelfests with maybe 2-3 guys out.
Man, Marie wiped out my homebreak, and I'm not going back to the island for a long time. What a bummer.
Still, there's a little sandbar that's built-in at a beach which is typically flat, offshore, and empty. I paddled out there during Marie, Norbert, and the run of Souths we've been having. It's short, closed-out and stompy, but still better than nothing.
The best day was during the big SW two weeks ago. Liquid lunch, sunny, high-70's with moderate offshores (at this place) which were onshore and blowing out the surf everywhere else. Some tourons on the beach but nobody in the water. I paddled out along the edge of the tall stoney seawall, taking advantage of a sandy soup backwashy rip to skitch out dry-haired. Water was freaking cold to be skinning it, but the air was warm. Further down the seawall, it was DOH+ and blasting huge spray fans on the backwash. Way to sketchy to surf down there.
So I sat on my little corner and waited for a peaky set to come through. One wave out of 5 would throw a nice CH-HH tube right off the corner of the seawall, that sometimes held up for 50-60 yards before closing out practically on the sand. A second right-hander showed up further down the beach, away from the rocks, and a rare clean, fast, stompy left would peel off in that same spot. Plenty of waves all to my lonesome. Clear, cold, blue water, and I could see all the way to the sandy bottom. A pod of dolphins swam by and one charged a set wave, right at me, veering off as the wave broke, and leaping out the back. Awesome, but sorta scary. They are f-ing FAST!
Got some barrels, threw some spray, launched, but didn't land, a few tentative airs. Near the end of my session, I dropped a OH closeout bomber, right into a huge backwash. Holy sweet stinky tofu, did I get destroyed! Blown up in the air, upside-down in a spread-eagle cartwheel. Gone were my fins, gone were my socks, just about lost my boardies too. Haha!
I was going to paddle in, but then three tourons showed up. One on a boog (t-shirt, no fins), one on a blackball beater (or some sort of foam shortie) and one on a log. They paddled out during a lull. When I say "paddled" I mean they sort of splish-splashed around in the impact zone after waddling out into chest-deep water, oblivious. This was simply too good to miss, and I prayed fervently for a cleanup set to stomp on drownie's 1, 2, and 3.
My prayers were answered after a few minutes. I waited until there was no possible way they could escape, and the shouted gleefully "OUTSIDE!!", sat back, and watched the carnage. Boog tried to paddle for the wave, from pretty much under the lip, and got hucked over the falls upside-down. Blackball tried to duckdive, and almost made it, but he got dragged backwards over the falls as well. I couldn't see Logger real well, but I think he just laid there with a deer-in-the-headlights expression as the lip dropped on his head. It wasn't a big wave, but it was square as heck. Watching those guys get smashed really made my day, because I'm a bad person.