Any near-death or injury experiences while surfing?

There isn't much swell in DE... Ever.... So probably for me the worst injury I had was at Indian River when I dove back into a wave because I was done with it... Hit my head right on the bottom. I was bleeding from the mouth, but I actually finished my surfing session with a headache and bleeding. (shark nerd alert)

I'm hoping some of the seniors have some thrilling stories, or at least more thrilling then mine..